Looking for that million-miles-away-from-it-all feeling that only an island setting can provide? Prefer to get there in the comfort of your roomy RV instead of a tight airplane seat? You absolutely can do that when visiting Northeastern Ohio’s scenic Lake Erie Islands! The Buckeye State has islands?  You might be surprised, but actually more than a dozen small islands (not all inhabited) lay between mainland Ohio and its northern neighbor Canada.

Although no coconuts sway in the breezes here, you won’t miss the typical tropical setting that “island” usually brings to mind. The most popular and populated, close-in South Bass and Kelleys Islands, are as carefree and charming as any saltwater island retreat—minus the geckos and palm fronds. Each island has its own personality—South Bass is more lively, Kelleys more laid back—and large retailers and hotel chains are absent from both. Instead, you’ll find friendly folk and the small-town pleasures of ice cream stands, local festivals, nice campgrounds, and family-owned businesses surrounded by beautiful scenery.

Walleye, Warblers & Wine

If you’re an angler, don’t forget the rod and tackle box. Greater numbers and varieties of fish are caught here than in any other Great Lake, so you’re sure not to have to tell tall fish tales! This region is known as the “Walleye Capital of the World” but smallmouth bass, white bass, and catfish are also plentiful. If you’ve never tasted fresh Lake Erie perch, you’re in for a very tasty treat!

Birding is a particularly popular pastime, too, so bring binoculars. Especially during annual migrations (May and September), over 200 species of songbirds and birds of prey can be spotted across the diverse island habitats. And not just common crows, cranes and cormorants either—Audubon Club members track everything with wings, from Bald eagles to Eastern Bluebirds, Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, Blackburnian Warblers, and Yellow-billed Cuckoos.

Thanks to the tempering effect of the relatively shallow, warm water, the Lake Erie islands remain frost-free longer than any other part of the state. This condition makes it ideal for growing many types of fruit, including grapes. In fact, the cultivation of grapes has always been profitable for island residents (except during Prohibition) and continues today. Concord, Catawba, Delaware, and Niagara are native-grown grapes you’ll find in local libations produced by small family-owned wineries. You might even hear South Bass and Kelleys referred to as the "Wine Islands."

 Now that your interest is piqued in the Lake Erie Islands… check back for parts 2 and 3 and find out what to see and do on South Bass Island.

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Originally named for the dead trees found in narrow Deadwood Gulch, lumbering helped legendary Deadwood, South Dakota get its economic start. Deadwood’s true roots, though, took hold in 1876 during the famous Black Hills Gold Rush. Seemingly overnight, Deadwood was the center of gold fever, with tents and saloons springing up fast and furious.

Although Deadwood became a ghost town when the gold rush ended just a couple of years later, and remained so for decades, the streets and architecture have since been authentically restored and now the entire town is a national historic landmark. The fully restored Adams House, built in 1892, is especially elegant and filled with original furniture and other household items. For a small town, Deadwood is big on entertainment. Gambling was legalized over 20 years ago, and since then, more than 80 historic gaming halls offer everything from nickel slots to $100 poker bets. If you run out of Lady Luck, take a walk down Main Street to find contemporary saloons, gift shops, restaurants, and museums.

Thanks to the successful HBO series, you might already be familiar with some of the many legends of yesteryear who lived and died in Deadwood—especially Wild Bill Hickok. You can pay your respects to Wild Bill and many other colorful Wild West characters at the Mount Moriah cemetery. Although walking tour maps don't quite seem appropriate for a cemetery, grab a guide at the information center anyway. The hillside graveyard actually feels more like a peaceful park, and is also the final resting place of Calamity Jane, Potato Creek Johnny (a local who found one of the largest gold nuggets in the Black Hills), Preacher Henry Weston Smith (credited with first bringing Christianity to the Black Hills), and Blanche Colman (the first woman admitted to the South Dakota bar) to name just a few. Records exist for about 3,627 people buried at Mount Moriah, although historians think the actual number may by higher due to lost or incomplete information. Mount Moriah also provides a panoramic view of the town below and sweeping vistas of the Black Hills.

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When you think of animals commonly found in Denali National Park, images of the Big Five— moose, grizzlies, wolves, caribou and Dall sheep—  come to mind. While amazing to see from a distance, this kind of wildlife should not be observed too closely. But the temptation to befriend a beautiful animal is hard to resist. Luckily, you CAN have a personal encounter with big paws and bushy tails—as long as they belonged to an Alaskan husky!  

After a mandatory short and free bus ride from the Visitor Center, you’ll arrive at the  dog kennels where a pack of sociable canines can’t wait to be petted and photographed. Indulge yourself in cuddling man’s best friend and also take a good look around. Sleds, harnesses, and other equipment are displayed, as well as charts showing the lineage of each dog. Surprisingly, these canines are not one particular breed, nor are they a mix of purebred dogs. An Alaskan husky is the result of hundreds of years of breeding dogs that are adapted to cold weather, have a strong desire to run and pull, a thick coat of fur, a bushy tail, long legs, and a great demeanor. What a pedigree!

 Although it’s easy to get side-tracked by the friendly dogs, don’t miss the informative talk given by the kennel manager. Visitors learn about the life and training of a sled dog, the establishment of the kennel in the 1920s, and the long history of mushing. Listening to the stories, it’s clear that these dogs have serious jobs. They log hundreds of patrol miles during the long winter months looking for poachers and taking supplies to rangers in remote, back-country cabins. In fact, there are vast stretches of designated wilderness where mechanized vehicles are prohibited—even if the terrain would allow, which it doesn’t. A team of 8 –10 adult dogs (individually weighing about 70 pounds) can pull a 400-500 pound load over ice and snow in blizzard as well as fair conditions—and love doing it!

How could any animal be enthusiastic about hauling a heavy sled over rough terrain in sub-zero weather, then sleep outdoors?!  You might be pretty skeptical at first, but all doubts vanish the moment the sled appears in the demonstration ring. Almost as if on cue, the entire kennel of jumping huskies boisterously bark and howl just begging to be chosen for the run. What a commotion! Since the ground is dry in the summer, the team is harnessed to the sled and they instead run on a gravel track. The dogs are no less ecstatic to show off their pulling power, even sans snow.

In 1938, famous Alaskan Judge James Wickersham said, "He who gives time to the study of the history of Alaska, learns that the dog, next to man, has been the most important factor in its past and present development." When you visit the sled dog kennels inside Denali National Park, you'll definitely see the truth in that statement.

NOTE:  Photos above courtesy NPS. Free mushing demonstrations are held at 10:00 a.m., 2:00 p.m., and 4:00 p.m. daily during the summer. No parking is available at the kennels; all visitors must take the free bus that leaves from the Denali Visitor approximately 40 minutes prior to each demonstration.

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Denali National Park Visitor Center

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Anthony Lake/ Grand Ronde Lake

After leaving Granite, enjoy 40 miles of pure mountain scenery as you travel over the 7,392-foot Elkhorn Mountain summit. Look for roadside remnants of rock walls left behind by early Chinese gold miners. This stretch of road also offers excellent opportunities for boating and fishing at crystal clear Anthony Lake and Grande Ronde Lake. Anthony Lake is the larger of the two and most popular with boaters and anglers. For hikers, the Angell Peak trail offers exercise and the best views of the lake; picnickers will enjoy lunching in the historic gazebo built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. There’s no fee for day-use, but there is a fee to stay at the picturesque campground. Next door, sits smaller Grande Ronde Lake. Secluded and serene, it’s another scenic setting for boating, fishing, and camping.

Haines

Following the completion of the Transcontinental Railroad in 1884, Haines was a major supplier of mining, timber, and agriculture products and was known as “The Biggest Little City in Oregon.” Today, the town is not quite as robust (the railroad stop was discontinued in 1962), but Main Street is still alive with a general store, steakhouse, saloon, post office, and more. The historic Chandler log cabin, the first built in Baker County in 1861, sits at the edge of town and is worth a look. The Eastern Oregon Museum is also here and has often been called “grandma’s attic” because of its eclectic collection of over 10,000 household, farming, mining, and pioneer artifacts.

 Although early explorers and Oregon Trail pioneers had it rough as they traversed and settled eastern Oregon, today’s travelers discover plenty of camping, dining, and fun things to do and see along the Elkhorn Scenic Byway. But even if you don’t find any leftover gold along the route, you’ll certainly have a wealth of photos and stories to your credit by journey’s end!

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Golden Boomtowns. When prospectors first discovered gold near the Powder River in 1861, the gold rush of eastern Oregon was on!  Boomtowns like Sumpter, Bourne, and Granite sprang up almost instantly. In fact, about 10,000 mining claims were filed in Baker County during the gold rush. Many private claims still exist, but recreational gold prospectors can still try their luck in certain rivers and streams along the Byway. Check with the Oregon Bureau of Land Management to determine which streams and rivers are open to the public.

Bourne (7 miles outside Sumpter on Cracker Creek). Although not much remains, Bourne is still worth a stop. At the end of the dusty, 6-mile gravel road that follows along Cracker Creek, you’ll find abandoned homesteads mixed in with a few newer summer cabins. A highlight is an old mine in the side of the cliff. Take a peek if you don’t mind a short dusty walk uphill. Although the shaft that once led deep into the hillside is sealed, remnants of rusty rails and a mining operation is still evident. Resist the urge to gold pan here, though, because federal mining claims are clearly posted.

Granite (15 miles northwest of Sumpter). Quite by coincidence, the town of Granite has a very patriotic history. On July 4, 1862, Albert Tabor first discovered gold here and to honor the day, he called his claim Independence. Upon applying for a post office, however, residents discovered that another small Oregon town was already called Independence, so the name was changed to Granite. The new name was quite appropriate because of the quartz mining boom also occurring in the area. By the turn of the century, the town was prospering and 15 businesses served the needs of the locals. But just as easily as it flourished, by the 1930s, the mines began to fail and residents moved elsewhere to find a new livelihood. Granite then became a ghost town. Beautiful ironwork marks the entrance to the tiny town now, and you’ll find several well-preserved buildings and a combination gas station/store/café. There’s also an old, well-cared-for cemetery in town with a commanding view of 5,863-foot Blue Spring Summit (a popular snowmobiling area in the winter). Drive slowly through the streets of Granite, and notice the signage on many of the buildings and homes. These plaques tell about the structure’s original purpose, owner, and history. Most year-round residents live right in town, but a grand total of about 25 people also live within an 8-mile radius. If you crave privacy, Granite is the place to live today!

The journey concludes next week with part 4…

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Sumpter (30 miles west of Baker City)

With the discovery of gold, the town of Sumpter sprang to life in 1862. By the early 1900s, numerous hard-rock mines were in operation and over 80 businesses served a population of about 3,000. Back then, the town was also known as The Queen City. After about 20 years, the mines began to lose yield, but then dredging commenced in 1913 and the town prospered greatly—recovering over $10 million in gold altogether. Finally, in 1954, when costs outweighed profits, the clattering of the dredge buckets was forever silenced. Mining operations ceased, folks moved on to find other jobs, and Sumpter became a ghost town. It’s not completely deserted today, however.

Sumpter Valley Dredge State Heritage Area

Not many gold dredges are still on public display, so take advantage of the opportunity to visit one of the largest and most accessible in the country—the 1,240-ton YUBA style dredge located on the edge of town at the Sumpter Valley Dredge State Heritage Area. Built at a cost of $350,000 in 1935, it produced $4.5 million in gold until 1954 (gold was then $35 an ounce), and was actually the third dredge to be used during that time period. Amazingly, this hulking machine actually floated on its own small pond. The dredge moved from place to place by digging into the soil in a sideways pattern, creating a constant pool of water that was taken from the Powder River. After a good look at the motors and machinery inside the cool depths of the dredge, walk back out into the hot sunshine and stroll along the tailings (discarded rock piles) and imagine the thrill of finding gold! Many dredge workers probably had the same dream. Earnings back then were only 90 cents an hour for oilers and $1.10 per hour for winchmen. The workmen had just two days off each year— Christmas and Independence Day. The dredge ran 24 hours a day/7 days a week in all kinds of weather, requiring three shifts of about 20 men each.

Sumpter Valley Railroad (also located in the State Heritage Area)

All aboard for Sumpter Valley Railroad!  After dreaming of striking it rich on the dredge, ride the rails of the steam-powered train that originally hauled millions of dollars of gold ore and timber from the Elkhorn Mountains between 1890-1947. While fellow passengers climb aboard, watch as the crew fills the steam locomotive with water and carefully couple on antique narrow gauge cars and a caboose. The 5-mile trip between Sumpter and McEwen stations runs weekends and holidays from Memorial Day through the end of September. Back in 1901, the Sumpter Railroad also ran through nearby Whitney, originally a lumber company town with a huge sawmill. Tiny Whitney closed down in 1947, but many old homesteads are still standing and make good photo subjects.

Lots more scenery ahead… check back for parts 3 and 4.

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Nothing says summer like a good old-fashioned road trip. And if you’re already in Oregon for the FMCA Convention in August, drive the Elkhorn Scenic Byway (Route 7) in eastern Oregon. The 106-mile paved loop route is filled with ghost towns, gold mining history, and gorgeous scenery! Photographers and history buffs alike will be delighted with the diverse route that winds through the Wallowa-Whitman National Forest, Elkhorn Mountains, and passes beautiful lakes and rivers. Gas up the rig, pack the gold pan, and grab your camera!

Baker City

Most drivers choose to begin and end the Elkhorn Scenic Byway loop in Baker City. Whet your appetite for the area’s golden history with a walking tour of the downtown area, officially recognized as a National Historic District. Many turn-of-the century Victorian buildings have been carefully restored, including City Hall and the famous Geiser Grand Hotel. The city’s gold rush heyday was in the 1860s, so don’t miss the interesting collection of nuggets at the US Bank on Main Street. The whopping 80.4-ounce “Armstrong Nugget” unearthed in 1913 by George Armstrong is on display during regular banking hours. You can also visit the Chinese Cemetery on the edge of town and learn just how important this group was in the building of railroads and gold mines in Baker County.

Flagstaff Hill

Westward Ho!  Between 1841 and 1850, nearly 100,000 pioneers outfitted their covered wagons and set out over the Oregon Trail—the mightiest westward migration in American history. The summit of Flagstaff Hill, six miles east of downtown Baker City, overlooks a well-preserved segment of the Oregon Trail where modern-day pioneers can trek in the original wagon wheel ruts. Talk about walking in someone else’s footsteps! The dust and sagebrush are real enough, but listen closely and you just might hear braying oxen and creaking wagons (or is that just the wind?!). The outdoor wagon encampment and mining site, as well as the extremely realistic dioramas inside the Interpretive Center, bring trail scenes to life. The Interpretive Center also houses a large theater for live performances depicting days gone by. You’ll leave the Center with a better understanding and appreciation of the hardships and triumphs experienced by the Oregon Trail emigrants.

Check back for parts 2 and 3 and 4… this summer road trip is just beginning to roll!

Driving Directions Option I:

• The 106-mile Elkhorn Scenic Byway starts and ends in Baker City, Oregon.

• Drive the route clockwise, taking SR 7 south out of Baker City and follow along the beautiful Powder River.

• After about 10 miles, SR 7 swings and goes west.

• At Granite, take Forest Road 73 north.

• After about 10 miles, the Elkhorn Drive Connects with the Blue Mt. Scenic byway at the North Fork of the John Day Campground. FR 73 will run east for about 30 miles.

• Take SR 30 south to get back to Baker City.

Driving Directions Option II:

• Start on SR 53, also named the Blue Mountain Scenic Byway. At the junction with SR 73, turn and go southeast several miles to the town of Granite.

• Drive through Granite. Continue east and through the town of Sumpter until the byway leaves the National Forest and turns north.

• Drive through Baker City on US 30, passing through Haines until you reach North Powder.

• Drive west along SR 53 until you return to your starting point at the junction with SR 73.

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Looking for small town charm mixed with cowboy flair while you’re in Redmond, Oregon for the FMCA Convention in August? Drive about 25 miles over to the town of Sisters and spend an afternoon boutique shopping along its 1880s western-style Main Street while enjoying the surrounding high desert scenery. If you haven’t been on the east side of Oregon’s Cascade Mountains, you’ll notice it’s no ordinary desert filled with sand and scrub. In fact, sweet-smelling Ponderosa and lodgepole pines, sage, juniper, and grazing llamas create spectacular roadside scenery that’s anything but desolate. And that’s just the lower half of the landscape— a variety of snow-capped Cascade Mountain peaks are sure to fill your windshield and side mirrors, so take your camera!

History of Sisters.  Three prominent peaks, all glaciated dormant volcanoes topping 10,000 feet—Faith, Hope, and Charity (South, Middle and North Sister Mountains)—are known collectively as the Three Sisters and give the charming tiny town of Sisters its name. The settlement, once just a handful of humble wooden buildings, got its start when the post office at Camp Polk, a temporary military camp three miles to the north, closed in the 1880s and moved to the junction of the McKenzie and Santiam Roads where Sisters is now.

Shopping in Sisters. Today, the tiny town still retains its 1880s western charm in terms of style, but it’s by no means back woods in terms of the top-notch art galleries, antiques, crafts, and specialty stores. Shopping in Sisters is indeed exceptional thanks to dozens of local artisans. Unique pottery, wood sculptures, stained glass, jewelry, and distinctive giftware make magnificent souvenirs, and there’s even an award-winning clock maker in town. A variety of small merchants sell western wear, outdoor gear, and even gourmet culinary supplies. And there’s no shortage of restaurants once you’ve shopped ‘til you drop—try Bronco Billy’s for the best burgers.

Celebrations in Sisters. If you don’t come to Sisters for the shopping, you’ll definitely want to visit often during the year for its special events. Although the population inside the city limits is small—about 1,700—residents are big on fun and festivals! Sisters annual professional rodeo, dubbed the “Biggest Little Show in the World” since 1940, is held the second week of June, the famous Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show takes place each July, the Sisters Folk Festival is in September, and a Sisters in Sisters Celebration occurs every October. That’s the short list! An annual Jazz Festival and Custom Car Classic, in addition to the town’s holiday festivities, provide a full calendar of entertainment.

BEFORE YOU GO:

Sisters Area Chamber of Commerce  541-549-0251

Central Oregon Visitors Association  800-800-8334

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A visit to Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park in southern Utah is a lesson in geography, geology, weather and physics all at the same time. Its location, which is actually a deep notch between the Moquith and Moccasin Mountains, serves as a natural collection area for the fine sands blown off the mountains' steep red cliffs and outcroppings. The wind funneled through the notch is so great that it easily carries these sand grains from the eroding ancient Navajo sandstone. Mixed in with the sand are grains of quartz with a hematite coating, providing the pink-orange color. Once the wind passes into the open valley, its velocity decreases and the sand is deposited, but the wind continues to whip it into ever-changing dunes. This phenomenon is known as the Venturi Affect, named after Giovanni Battista Venturi (1746–1822), an Italian physicist. 

Most visitors stop at Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park while touring Utah’s Grand Circle (Bryce Canyon and Zion, Arches, Canyonlands and Capitol Reef National Parks). Just 12 miles southwest of U.S. Hwy 89 near Kanab, the park is indeed convenient to these more popular attractions, but Coral Pink Sand Dunes is also a unique destination perched at an elevation of 6,000 feet. Photographers and off-road enthusiasts especially appreciate this unique landscape found nowhere else in the United States. The sweeping sandy expanse is 3,730 acres of contrasting color— coral dunes surrounded by red sandstone cliffs, blue skies, white fluffy clouds, and emerald junipers and pinion pines. The dunes are also a massive playground for riding off-highway vehicles!

If you’d rather get around on your own two feet, a nature trail is closed to riding, so hikers can get sand in their boots without dodging OHVs. Park facilities include a campground ($15 per night) with modern restrooms, hot showers, 22 pull through sites (max RV length 32 feet), and a dump station. No electricity. There’s also a small visitor center and a gift shop. Day use fee is $6.

Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park

Kanab, Utah

Phone: (435) 648-2800

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If you’ve been to Glen Canyon Dam, you’re already familiar with the sparkling little community of Page, Arizona. What you might not know, though, is that about four miles south of town is an unexpected viewpoint that will take your breath away. You might as well start thinking of superlatives now, because once you’re standing on the edge looking down, all you can think is WOW —and somehow that little word doesn’t capture the enormity of the view!

Horseshoe Bend is aptly named for a horseshoe-shaped meander of the Colorado River, located slightly downstream from Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Accessible via a sandy 1.5 mile round trip hiking trail, it can be viewed from atop a steep cliff — a 1,000+ foot drop with no guard rails! According to Google terrain maps, the overlook is 4,200 feet above sea level and the Colorado River is at 3,200 feet above sea level. But it’s more than just the perilous drop to the blue-green river below that makes the scene. It’s also the orange Navajo sandstone, carved by wind and water over millions of years, both below your feet and on the horizon, which creates the amazing vista.

The hike begins from a large parking area just off U.S. 89. The wide, easy-to-follow trail leads quickly up a low, sandy hill. The blue sky here seems to go on forever, and if you’re not used to hiking in sand, it might seem like slow going, but the viewpoint really isn’t far. Take water and wear sunscreen, as there’s no cover or facilities. As you approach the overlook, sand gives way to bare rock that has been eroded into crazy shapes and angles. If you’re visiting toward the end of the day, notice how shadows can make for interesting photos, too. Watch your footing as you near the edge to peer at Horseshoe Bend below—and keep those descriptive metaphors and similes in mind because you’re going to need them!

DIRECTIONS: Off U.S. 89, just south of mile marker 545, turn west on the dirt road and drive a couple of hundred yards to the parking area.

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