Defensive driving takes on a whole new intensity once you become an RVer. Every highway action is magnified exponentially as you command a rig, which sometimes causes you to question your interpretation of the scene unfolding in front of you.
The good news is, no matter where you travel in the U.S., road signs and their meanings for RVers stay consistent across the miles. Here’s a brief rundown of the top three road signs for RVers to observe.
How road signs make driving safer, easier
Before the electrical grid lit up America’s cities and roadways with traffic lights, street signs were the only way that drivers knew how to get around and avoid accidents. Auto history buffs say that as early as 1905 visionary automobile clubs around the country were posting helpful signs to direct drivers.
The only problem? These signs were inconsistent from place to place. Consequently, over the next two decades, road signs were improved by the creation of eight shapes and colors that remain the same across the U.S. and in many countries too.
What road signs mean is important, but uniformity in shape, color, and typeface is important too. Road sign shapes and colors are detailed in the Manual on Uniform Traffic Control Devices (MUTCD), published by the Federal Highway Administration (FHWA). But for the purposes of this article, let’s talk about the three most important signs for RVers to observe:
Top three road signs for RVers
Downhill Grade Ahead
Downhill grade warning signs give extra warnings that it’s time downshift into a lower gear. First, move into the slow lane and allow other drivers to pass, then ease off the gas pedal. Whatever you do, don’t ride the brakes or pump them. Overheated brake pads and friction fires are commonly caused by RVers who don’t know proper downshifting procedures:
- Slow down
- Release your brakes
- Shift down into a lower gear.
The resistance created by lower gears will slow your RV down. Repeat downshifting as necessary until you’re at least 10 miles-per-hour below posted speed limits.
Low Clearance Warnings
If you don’t know the height of your RV, trouble could be lurking around the bend. Low clearance dangers are common causes of RV and trucking accidents and property damage, especially in older areas east of the Mississippi.
To add insult to injury, when an RV or trucker hits a low clearance bridge, local highway department can impose damage fines. You can avoid this hard lesson by getting an accurate measurement of your RV’s height. You can do it one of two ways:
- Get a friend and a long tape measure (borrow or rent a surveyor’s tape measure). Go up on your RV roof and stand at the highest point, typically the air conditioner unit. Hold one end of the tape measure and drop the other end down to your friend on the ground. There’s your measurement.
- Make it easy on yourself and drive your rig to a proper RVing weigh station. A professional RV weigh service will accurately weigh and measure your rig.
Dead End / No Outlet

Avoiding dead end encounters starts with proper trip planning. Photo courtesy of Creative Commons jhnri4
There’s a lot to be said for Class B vans and truck bed campers. For starters, you can easily maneuver out of tight turnarounds, dead ends, and cul-de-sac streets. For the rest of us, a Dead End or No Outlet sign is enough to cause cardiac arrest.
Avoiding dead end encounters starts with proper trip planning. It also requires a good GPS unit for RVers, and when possible, an old-fashioned paper map to verify navigation choices. Although all tools are critical to avoiding dead ends, wrong turns can still happen to the best of us. Should you get into a tight spot, you have two choices:
- Back up all the way to the nearest turnaround point.
- Stay put and maneuver back and forth until you can turn around.
Either tactic requires a patient partner who can guide you out of the situation. You can pre-arm yourself for these dreaded and inevitable stressful RV turnaround maneuvers by taking an RV driving course and learning how to back up like the pros.
The more often you go RVing, the greater the odds of ending up in a precarious situation like going too fast while traveling downhill, encountering a low bridge at the last minute, or figuring out how to maneuver out of a dead end street.
The good news is that with patience and a cool head you can get out of these events with your RV. As a bonus, you’ll have great campfire stories to tell!
If you have other urgent road warning signs for our list, let us know by commenting below.

Rene Agredano and her husband, Jim Nelson, became full-time RVers in 2007 and have been touring the country ever since. In her blog, Rene chronicles the ins and outs of the full-timing life and brings readers along to meet the fascinating people and amazing places they visit on the road. Her road trip adventures are chronicled in her blog at LiveWorkDream.com.
MEASURING THE HEIGHT OF AN RV REQUIRES USING A LEVEL WITH ONE END RESTING ON THE RV HIGH POINT AND THE OTHER END HELD OUT BEYOND THE RV SIDE. THEN MEASURE FROM THE LOWER PART OF THE LEVEL TO THE FLAT GROUND. NEED 2 PEOPLE..
Good point, that’s a great way to tackle the job, thanks Bill.
But make sure that the vehicle being ‘height measured’ is at travel mode and that air bags, if applicable, are fully aired up.
Great point Lee. We just installed air bags ourselves and went to get re-measured with them at capacity, they do make a difference.
Also, look at the road surface, if the signs look old but the surface looks clean, be very careful!!! Sometimes DOT will add 3″ of blacktop and not change the sign. A 12’3″ clearance may become a 12″ or even less.
We added 6inches to our clearance for good measure
Weight limits are CRITICAL!!!
Unfortunately they are often only posted just before the bridge.
I crossed one where the sign was AFTER you started across. Fortunately I made it OK but I was way over the posted limit.
areas posted with wind warning should be noted as well Have been pushed half a lane in our class A
As a former truck driver all of these are critically important. How to get down a steep grade doesn’t get the attention it deserves. Our method is to start down the grade in the lowest practical gear. There are usually several warning signs before a grade so take heed. Allow the vehicle to go down the grade letting the engine compression retard its speed. Allow for 5 MPH of acceleration then brake off that 5 MPH as quickly as possible without locking up. Do not ride the brake after this, release it completely. While your vehicle is gradually picking up that 5 mph your brakes are cooling for the next application. If you’re gaining speed too quickly between breaking then carefully select a lower gear. If your vehicle has a standard transmission it’s best to come to a stop to do this because if you miss your gear on the downshift you’ve just lost your primary breaking tool…… compression.
Riding the brake down a grade causes so much heat to build up that your rotors (or drums) can get red hot. The friction material in the pads or shoes start to outgas from the heat and that high pressure layer of hot gas makes your coefficient of friction go way down….. sometimes to zero. Brake “fade” is the warning sigh. After over-breaking you may notice vibration. Congratulations! You’ve warped your rotors or drums plus heat treated the metal making them super hard…… so they will have to be replaced.
Trust your GPS is another joke. Been 4 wheel driving for years and I have been on roads that GPS (and regular maps) have indicated has nice black top roads. Always hearing about people getting lost on 4 wheel drive roads with their GPS saying they were regular roads.
Quite true! I used to train drivers and didn’t allow them to use a GPS until they proved that they could plan a safe route, complete with rest and fuel stops, with a truckers road atlas. Even then I still had trainees get lost and then say “The GPS told me to go this way!” My reply applies to everyone who uses one. A GPS is a machine and a tool. It offers a SUGGESTED route but it is ALWAYS up to the driver to make sure that the suggestion is a good one. Most problems come from using a GPS intended for causal automotive navigation. Spend the extra to get a unit that takes into account the dimensions and weight of your vehicle. I use a Garmin RV660LMT with back-up camera, which is a lot more affordable now then when I got mine.
CURED MY WHITE KNUCKLE RIDES DOWN STEEP GRADES BY INSTALLING A BANKS EXHAUST BRAKE ON MY 2003 SILVERADO 2500 HD DURA MAX, ALLISON. TOWING OUR FIFTH WHEEL. WHEN WE APPROACH A LONG STEEP DOWN GRADE I MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS IN TOW HAUL MODE, LOCKOUT THE OVERDRIVE AND DOWN SHIFT TILL I FIND THE ENGINE RUNNING 2500 RPM. TURN ON EXHAUST BRAKE AND YOU CONTROL WHAT EVER SPEED YOU WANT WITH THE THROTTLE. NEVER TOUCH THE BRAKES ANYMORE GOING DOWN HILL. MADE MY WIFE VERY HAPPY.
My coach is 12′ 6″ tall, and I am wondering if I use a mapping service to plan my trip, will I be informed of such low overheads bridges once I’m off the interstate? I know I can’t back up the rig because of my tow vehicle
I have had a bad experience with both trusting the GPS and brakes overheating. I will never understand why the GPS took us down the road it did but there was no turning around, It turned out to be a loop that brought us bad to the starting point. The mountain road was steep and narrow, I have never been so nervous in my life. I did not have enough knowledge on the brakes as I should have but did have the mind to install the Tire Minder that registered the temperature as well as the pressure. The temperature of the front wheels exceeded 250 degrees so I stopped and gave them an hour to cool down, probably saved our lives. I guess I didn’t wait long enough, they overheated again over 250 degrees and our coach brakes failed completely. Thank God we were at the bottom at that time and our toad brakes were enough to stop us. Later research taught me that brake fluid boils at 250 degrees and old brake fluid at much lower temps. Also learned that old brake fluid absorbs water and boils at a much lower temp causing it to turn to steam resulting in complete brake failure. We replaced it with fluid compatible with the standard and rated at 450 degrees. If your unit is 5 years old or older I would recommend replacing your fluid, it is not a difficult job but one worth the trouble. Our story turned out to be an easy lesson learned and we would like others to learn by our mistakes. I would like to see a comprehensive story written warning others of the hazard especially if you own an older unit. Otherwise Happy Trails to all.
I have a friend who drives logging trucks, fully loaded down mountain logging roads. They use water to cool breaks as well as engine brakes. One trip down uses 450 gallons of water . Kinda shows how important it is to keep the brakes as cool as possible.