“I don’t think the heavy stuff is going to come down for quite a while.” Dave quips, using one of his favorite movie quotes. I look out the windshield. It is dark. And snowing. The headlights of our truck make the snowflakes look hypnotically like I would imagine stars flying past as we enter a black hole.
We haven’t seen evidence of another human life in hours. I am keenly aware that everything that matters to me is riding along this dark, icy road with me: Dave, our belongings, and our pets—and we are hundreds of miles from anywhere. After what feels like an eternity, we find a good spot to camp for the night just outside of Watson Lake, Yukon Territory, Canada.
I look at the clock, it is 6:30 pm. No need to risk it pushing on. The next morning, we are greeted by a winter wonderland under crystal blue skies. We are greeted by a view of the glaciated Northern Rocky Mountains of the Yukon in their spectacular untouched glory as they have been for thousands of years.
The beauty of remote travel in the off-season near Pink Mountain, British Columbia (Photo by TC Wait)
Traveling the Alaska-Canada (AlCan) Highway during the off-season between late September to May is not on most people’s bucket lists, but as opposite snowbirds–headed towards the snow–we travel north from the Lower 48 each fall and return south each spring.
Exploring the 1,700 miles of road built during World War II by the US Army Corps of Engineers gives a traveler a good sense of the challenges the 10,000+ troops who built the original roadway faced. It was built in only 8 months time to transport supplies and troops to the Alaskan Territory through some of the most remote areas of the Northern Rocky Mountains.
Stunning arctic morning colors near Haines Junction, Yukon Territory (Photo by TC Wait)
A great resource for learning more about the construction of the AlCan is the PBS episode of American Experience, Building the Alaska Highway. The road crosses marshes, rivers, mountain passes, and permafrost areas that are ongoing maintenance issues to keep the only roadway into Alaska open.
With fewer travelers than the busy summer months, off-season travel allows you to experience the vastness of the region and the largely untouched wilderness expanses that lie between the outposts.
If you choose to drive the AlCan during the off-season, there are several things to keep in mind before you go.
You will see some of the most dramatic landscapes you can imagine. The harshness of the cold season does something magical to the scenery, seemingly taking you through a time portal to the Pleistocene.
As lush and beautiful as the drive is during the summer months, the winter beauty is beyond imagination. Bring your camera!
Watch out for the wildlife! During the winter, wildlife is abundant along the plowed roadway where it is easier for them to travel and graze through the deep snow.
A herd of caribou on the road near Muncho Lake Provincial Park in British Columbia (Photo by TC Wait)
In one day we have seen buffalo, caribou, elk, sheep, and wolves without leaving our rig. Large dark animals on icy roads during the blackest nights are not something you want to suddenly encounter.
Prepare for anything. Many of the roadside stops available during the summer mentioned in the Milepost are closed during the off-season, making stretches of 300+ miles between gas or food sources common.
The primary population centers along the way (Dawson Creek, Fort St. John, Fort Nelson, Watson Lake, Teslin, Whitehorse, Haines Junction, Beaver Creek, and Tok) will have services through the winter. Other stops may or may not.
If winter storms affect supply trucks, there may be shortages along the way. Additionally, any accident or issue on the road can close the highway for hours or days while crews are dispatched from hundreds of miles away to remedy the situation. Extra food, water, fuel, blankets, batteries, tire chains, and supplies are a must.
Do not take risks. The AlCan is remote in the best of seasons, but in the off-season, it is even more so. There is no cell service for the majority of the length of route (and check with your provider if they offer coverage in Canada before you go), the roads can be very icy, and the winter months have only a few hours of daylight.
With fewer other travelers, if you should slide off the road, have a flat tire, or have an accident, it will very likely be several hours before help can reach you. Play it safe to travel on another day.
Wild bison causing a traffic issue on the AlCan Highway (Photo by TC Wait)
Read the fuel pumps carefully before filling. Especially if you drive a diesel! Some Canadian gasoline fuel pumps have green handles, which can be confusing for those from the US that are used to green diesel pumps.
We made this mistake one year after several days on the road, and ended up spending a lot of unexpected time in the cold in a nearly abandoned village waiting for a mechanic from 200 miles away to drive out and help us…. That was not an inexpensive service call either, so bring along some extra Canadian cash!
Pack your patience. Along 1,700 miles, something will likely happen that isn’t in your plan. A flat tire, TWO flat tires, road closures, a stubborn herd of bison, storms, an avalanche–anything is possible and should be expected.
Seriously enjoy the travel. Sure, a lot can go wrong and it may not be an easy drive, but that also makes it part of the adventure! This type of adventuring allows you to meet and connect with fellow travelers along the same route.
Share stories and travel conditions with others. Take the time to chat with the folks who keep the fuel pumps and coffee going during the winter months—they are the ones that know the seasons of the land like no other.
Slow down and enjoy the journey as it unfolds for you—these are memories that will last a lifetime.
Keep your great photos coming!
While there are common practices for the colour of the handle on a fuel pump nozzle, it’s not entirely consistent even within the U.S., so no one should ever depend on that. Whatever the colour of the handle on a fuel pump nozzle, diesel nozzles are usually larger than those for gasoline. If it’s not larger, that should be your first hint. In any case, read the pump… along the AlCan highway or anywhere else.
Of course it’s a good idea to have some locally valid cash – the right kind for the country in which you are travelling – but no one expects cash for auto repairs in the civilized world. Credit and debit cards are expected, so don’t carry a huge stash of cash “just in case”.
If you have no experience in sustained sub-zero climates, I would not recommend this travel in the winter. This HWY is a formidable challenge in the summer months, but the winter is unforgiving. Often times the wind chill can reach -70F. You will experience increased periods of darkness, heavy snowfall and white-out driving conditions. Everything from your rig’s winterization to your wardrobe must be adapted in order for you to survive..
The article paints a very nice picture………however, I agree with DW. Who in their right mind would want to RV in these conditions?.
We have a homestead in Willow, AK. We have seen it minus 51 here. But, that said, My brother, my young son and I were stranded on the AlCan during Jan. 89 when the temp. was minus 65. I can tell you that it was terrifying. We had a good car. But, the fuel pump clogged up. I prayed like never before. A bush teacher just happened along in his tiny car. If he hadn’t come along, we wouldn’t have made it. Unless someone has to travel that highway in the winter, they shouldn’t because sooner or later something will happen-and not just a flat tire.
The article seems to paint a fairly honest picture of benefits and risks of this travel. Would love to do this taking the right precautions. Seems like traveling with a couple of rigs makes a lot a sense if you can find someone crazy enough to go with you.
Biiiggg difference betwee a compact truck camper with 4WD and a regular class A motorhome, but even so, this article would have benefitted greatly from a bit of discussion of practical aspects of camping and driving in very low temperatures and high winds
In the fall of 2006, we took our 2006 Travel Supreme MH from the Odessa, TX area to Ruidoso, NM during Thanksgiving, a trip of just a few hours north and west of us. If you’ll look at the map, it is not anywhere close to AK. We had dual heat pumps and a Hydro-Hot system in our 38′ DP coach with 3 slideouts. It snowed while we were there and it was very pretty. While we stayed nice and warm inside the RV, so did the snow that melted during the day and froze on our slideout topper awnings at night. Snow and ice also got under the topper awnings onto the tops of the slideouts. The awnings would not retract and the ice prevented the slideouts from fully retracting, too. So, we drove our tow car to the local Walmart, purchased a shovel and a shop broom, then I climbed up onto the slippery roof and tried to remove the ice and snow without damaging the roof and awnings. The roof survived, the awnings were never the same. I had to beat the awnings with the broom to get the snow and ice off of them in order for the awnings to partially retract. Back and forth we cycled the slideouts until we were finally able to get under way. Any ice left of the roof would smash into the plastic air conditioner cowlings and fall onto vehicles behind us. During a March blizzard while driving through Cookeville, TN on I-40 in a less weather-tolerant RV that had no slideouts, the outside compartment doors froze, road ice and ice pot holes damaged the undercarriage and it was too cold to start the diesel generator. Keeping the refrigerator from getting too cold was also a problem. Waste valves froze and sewer hoses fractured when they were unwound. When the interstate got closed, we got stuck on a US highway going up a mountain and had to get towed out. Thinking about tire chains? What’s in your wheel-wells? Wiring? Hydraulics? Fuel lines? What do you think a loose tire chain will do to those? No RV is designed for winter weather. Think about it – how well does your car do in ice and snow? Just fine? Yeah, right.
I have driven to AK in the summer and I do not recommend it. First, the Milepost travel guide suggests that there are actual mile markers but there might be 3 of them the entire trip from Edmonton to the AK border. In order to know where you are, you need to buy the Milepost. There is a tremendous amount of gravel roads and severe frost heaves that will destroy your front end suspension and tow car. We drove the entire length of the Alcan highway. The Canadians will blame the poor road conditions on the permafrost. Somehow, geology and physics all change as soon as you cross into AK. Alaskan roads are as fine as anywhere else in the lower 48 because they are built properly and maintained properly. One downhill section of the eastbound highway ended at its uphill section in a “V” shape, not a “U”. You could actually see where vehicles hit the ascending highway road surface. Who in their right mind would ever design a road like that? While the beauty of the Alcan highway can not be over-estimated, your RV and tow car deserve better. We had to repaint the tow car, replace its windshield and the gravel destroyed the car bra, destroyed the insulation around the wiring to the tow car’s brake lights causing them to short out, destroyed the TPMS sensors screwed onto the tire valve stems on the tow car. Dust gets into everything and most campgrounds had vehicle washes. The dust got into all closed cabinets and all surfaces making cleaning a chore. The dust was attracted to anything with a charge on it, including our dash CD player. It failed to eject and when the CD was pulled out using a needlenose pliers, the dust was lined up on it like iron filings near a magnet. We had to replace the entire radio/CD unit (thank you eBay). With only 60,000 miles on the RV, it cost over $4,000 to replace and repair the front end. I have never had any vehicle (and I’ve been driving for over 50 years) that needed a front end replacement. So, if you have the need to see AK, don’t drive there in your own vehicle. It just ain’t worth it. Fly there or cruise there. By the way, western Montana is prettier.
I’ve been on that road a couple of times in an R.V. and did not experience any of your troubles. There was always someone that wanted to get somewhere faster tho and passing me. You have to drive to road conditions.
You really should understand what you are saying about Canadian roads. The Alaska highway for the last 200 miles is supposed to be maintained by the US as it’s only purpose is to provide access to Alaska
As well looks like your driving and maintaining ability based on reported damage leaves something to be desired
Wow, If I was you I’d never leave my driveway!
You were not prepared as you said, you had to go to Wallyworld for brooms and shovels; you’re in snow country, don’t you carry a shovel in case you get stuck!!??
I’ve done the Alcan three times, spring, summer and January/February. Summer and winter trips towing a 35′ TT with a F150 screw, no where near your issues. We’ve done the TLH (Trans Labrador Hwy) twice, winter & summer. It all comes down to being prepared and taking the weather as it comes.
By the way, in snowy conditions remove your canopies or tarp/bungy cord over them, remove the tarps and off comes the ice and snow!
Sorry but you come across as a major whiner, like I said stay home next time.
GB
Yes net story interesting for me as Watson Lake is where I was teen 1950 to 1965 so I have been on the highway for many diff years and what a big change….1950 to 2017 my last trip…
Regarding the diesel nozzles – I learned long ago to smell the end of the nozzle if I had any doubt at all. As we drivers of ‘stinkpots’ know, diesel has a pretty distinctive odor, and is easily distinguished from gasoline.
The other theme, travelling the ALCAN, was a once-in-a-lifetime event for my wife and I, in summer. Even then, preparation was the key. Take spare coolant (rocks can wreak havoc on radiators), tires, headlights, and windshield washer fluid. A roadside emergency kit is a good idea, and a good jack with some leveling boards will make you independent of the roadside service supplier.
Just my two cents worth.
RV. Recreational vehicle. How is this kind of trip recreational? I’ll wait for the good Lord to restore the planet when He comes to live with us down here. Then I’m hoping He has a great travel plan for us not only on the new Earth, but in the entire universe He created.
But there’s much to admire about a determined soul who wants to brave such adventures, so I can sip my coffee in my favorite recliner, and read about it…..safe and snug.
Been there done that in 1970 and 72. The first time my friend and I took a 1968 AMC Javelin 290V8-4spd. We rolled it in Mckinley Park(thats what it was called then) . We lived obviously but had to pop up the roof and duct tape a windshield in that sort of fit that we picked up in a junkyard in Anchorage. We continued our trip at that point. We camped in a tent the entire trip and had a blast. The second trip in 72, i built out a 1969 Econoline window van with a 6 and 3spd stick into a full out camper with fridge, stove, slide out bed, etc. This was my introduction to RVing. The Alcan, at that time, was mostly gravel and could get as slippery as hot grease if it was raining. Drive accordingly and you’ll be fine. The whole point of it being potentially dreadful and unknown is what made a great trip.
I lived in AK for 24 years, and drove the Alcan (or at least parts of it when taking the ferry) on at least 6 occasions. Tough road? Yes. Lifetime experiences? Absolutely. I drove a 34 foot Class A Winnebago with zero damage (not even a scratched front end!), a cab over camper (dirty as all get out, no damage), a pull along trailer (might have sustained some damage, but it wasn’t much to start with), and a Box Truck.
The Box truck was in 1998 when we moved Outside after 24 years in Alaska. We blew out a window with a softball sized rock that came in through the Driver’s side window and flew in front of my face, landing between the dog and my wife. That trip resulted in a 1500 mile drive looking for a roll up window for the Box truck, which we didn’t get until we got off the Alcan.
Of course, there were days when the average speed was 30 mph. Can you drive faster than 45? Sure…but I wasn’t comfortable doing it. The road was challenging, to be certain, but as long as you were more interested in the beauty and the challenges rather than speed and “making time,” it is probably one of the most interesting drives you will take.
I have several MUST STOP” places. Muncho Lake (YT) is gorgeous. Kluane is probably worthy of a couple of days and a guided fishing trip. Don’t know if Dorothy’s is still a business, but her smoked whitefish was probably the best I’ve had in my life! Any place in the YT that you can camp an RV is worthwhile, as most of them are on little creeks. The creeks are usually somewhat fished out (Grayling…#12 fly if I remember correctly) but if you walk 1i-1/2 miles or further up the creek, you must hide to tie a new fly on your line! Incredible fishing, and good tasting Grayling…yum!
Lliard Hot Springs in BC, and most of the little towns in BC are just…fun!
Would I drive the trip in winter? Probably not with the Class A RV that I cared about. You really will encounter sketchy driving conditions…and it can get scary. I’d worry about damage to the RV under those winter circumstances. Would I do it with a truck and 4WD? Sure, but I learned how to drive in Minnesota, not in Atlanta. The driving conditions are really something else…summer or winter…and it is not a trip to be undertaken lightly. For most of us, this is something of a bucket list event. If you ONLY have a month for the entire trip…don’t bother. On the other hand, if you are willing to put in the time…during the June-July-August period,,,,you will experience one of the neatest drives possible.
I have driven the winter road at -70 F, and it is an interesting experience. It is NOT something that I would consider fun or a good experience. If I saw temperatures less than -20 on a long driving day, I would say to just forget it and spend the day hanging around. If you are planning to drive the road in winter, you could see -60 to -70 F…and I would bet that most folks who do NOT live in the YT or AK do NOT have the kind of winter gear that will handle those conditions. Better search for knee-length Down Jackets with Canvas cover and wolf ruffs. Bunny boots will allow you to take a walk and not freeze your feet. Get used to living in long johns and wool pants…or insulated pants.. They are your friends.
If such a long trip is a bit daunting, consider getting on the Alaska ferry in Bellingham, WA, or Prince Rupert, BC. The ferry is a wonderful way to see the SE. I would suggest that you purchase section tickets, if they still sell them, and get off in several places. It has been a long time since I did this, so you are on your own recognizance doing your research here. Petersburg probably won’t hold your interest for a week, but Ketchikan and Juneau will be well worth the stay in and of themselves. You will spend AT LEAST the amount of time that it takes for the next ferry headed in your direction (take your pick: North or South) but make sure you don’t miss it! Note: you will not have access to your RV once outside of port, so reserve a room on the ferry when possible.
Just two more thoughts. The first is that parts of this trip will be difficult. It is almost impossible to drive the Highway without some kind of problem. You are just riving too many miles for SOME problem not to come up. If you can’t live with that kind of expectation, don’t drive on the Alaskan Highway. Period. The second is interesting. The second is that the AlCan, when I first drove it in 1974, was 80-90% UNPAVED. This meant that they would grade it once a week…and put Calcium Chloride on the road. It was pretty nice for about a week…at which point it would develop potholes. I once spent some time in one of those… The LAST time I drove it, in 1998, it was 80-90% paved and 10% unpaved. The road was in worse condition once it was paved! The potholes were deeper…and when paved, they had asphalt edges when you went in and went out. Because it was more expensive to repair, you had repairs happening less often, and I swear the road was rougher. I don’t know what it is like now, 20 years later, but I bet that rough road aspect would still be true.
Parting word: It takes a special kind of person to tackle this job in the winter, and winter comes early. As an Alaskan, I would plan to spend the month of July making my way toward Alaska…taking at least two weeks and being the ultimate road warrior, going slowly and stopping whenever something caught my eye. KNOWING that I would drive 3000 miles to and from the Midwest to Alaska, I took my sweet time, and one day I made only 50 miles before HAVING to stop at Muncho Lake! Gorgeous. I would then spend the month of August in the following manner:
Drive to Homer, AK, and camp on the Spit. If you see someone offering horse rides on the beach there, book an entire morning on the horse. Explore everywhere. Go to Halibut Cove, possibly Cordova. Both are worth the trip. If you can book some time in one of the forest service cabins anywhere out of Cordova…DO IT! July will have good fishing. HIRE A GUIDE AND SPEND AT LEAST A DAYLONG TRIP FISHING FOR HALIBUT.
On your trip back from Homer (Allow at least a week in Homer), stop in every little place that offers a restaurant. Dig for clams in Clam Gulch. Go spend two days in Captain Cook State Park. Hike and fish to your heart”s delight. Bring pepper spray.
Stop for 3-4 days in Seward. Climb Mount Marathon. Eat cinnamon rolls. Visit every place that is open. Book a Red or Silver fishing trip. Ignore the combat fisherman warriors lined up on the Kenai…but spend the money for a float guide. Good stuff!
Drive through Anchorage and get on the Glenn Highway. Not sure where to camp on the Glenn, but if you find a place…camp there. You are headed toward Valdez. You will need 5-6 days in Valdez, and your goal is to get a guide for the Silver Salmon Derby on the Labor Day weekend. Go out two days…it is exhausting, but the fish will be THERE. We’re talking about world class THE FISH WILL BE HERE.
The return trip is the tricky one. It will be early September. You will be driving in winter. It CAN get cold…as in -40 F. It usually DOESN’T get that cold, but you will have to assume that it COULD get that cold. Drive until it gets warmer, and if you only take the ferry one way, consider doing it this way, but don’t plan on stopping anywhere as you are now driving in the winter.
I know…it is a different kind of trip…but it is a bucket list trip. It will be more expensive than you expect.
I didn’t cover Fairbanks or Denali. I lived in one and spent many weekends in the other. Both are great places to go….but you need time to do it!
Good luck! Sorry that my information is old…but I checked this morning and I am getting older as well. Who’da thought that would happen?
-Kurt-