Too many good things in RVing are becoming less and less available. Of late, that seems to include free RV waste dumping stations. In recent years, you could dump your tanks at many highway rest stops, facilities behind gas stations, and of course (and most commonly), at many RV parks.
Today, it’s a different story. You have to open your wallet now to dump your waste at those rare spots. What has happened is a combination of restricted government funding, and in too many cases, a few either uncaring or uneducated individuals leaving behind a mess giving the rest of us a bad reputation.
A surprising number of RVers are getting into the lifestyle and upon purchase of their unit, they are given full instructions by dealers on how to run their RV refrigerator, air conditioner, TV, and microwave, etc. but are never clearly taught how to dump waste. Whether you’re a newbie (or a seasoned veteran who needs a refresher every now and then), here is our version of Tank Dumping 101—plus a few extra tips you may not know.
- Pull your rig up to the dump station, carefully getting your black water (toilet) connection as close to it as possible. Being close means if there’s a spill, it’s much more contained. Always dump your black water first as gray water will rinse the black water evils out of your hose.
- Pull on a pair of rubber gloves. Many use throwaway gloves while others find reusable, industrial gloves work better.
- Place the discharge end of your sewer hose into the dump station receptacle. You’ll often find a brass step on-style lid covering the receiving port, and often a big rock handy to hold the lid open while you slide in the hose. With the hose inside the receiving port several inches, put that big rock on the hose to keep it from jumping free (and spreading its contents around where you don’t want it).
- Before you remove your rig’s waste valve termination cap, ensure that all slide valves are firmly closed (this will prevent you from taking a large, unnecessary bath). If a valve is open, close it, then, by simply holding the open end of your sewer hose under the valve to catch a spill, gently and carefully “crack open” the termination cap and try and get the contents into the hose.
- Attach your sewer hose to the sewer valve adapter. Push it straight on and firmly turn it clockwise. Push and pull on the hose fitting to ensure a tight connection.
- Verify your connection by barely cracking open the black water valve. If you get a leak, close the valve quickly and verify your hose-to-valve adapter connection. When you’re sure of a tight connection, proceed to the next step.
- Pull the black water lever wide open. Allow the tank’s contents to completely empty. Here is where having a clear plastic fitting on the valve adapter end of the sewer hose really helps (among other products available) – you can watch to make sure the flow stops.
- Close the black water valve.
- Open the gray water valve. Allow the flow to completely stop before closing the gray water valve.
- Disconnect the sewer hose and hold it up carefully to prevent any liquid remaining in the hose from gushing back out. Lift it up from the RV end, running any remaining liquids down into the dump station receptacle.
- Use the dump station rinse hose to flush out your sewer hose – while still connected to the dump station receptacle. Never use your fresh water hose.
- Remove the sewer hose from the receptacle and store it away.
- With the ubiquitous rock holding the dump station receptacle cover open, use the rinse hose to clean up any spills. Close the cover and replace the rinse hose.
- Replace your waste valve termination cap.
Some extra waste dumping tips
A couple of situations may make your dump station task a bit more daunting. You may encounter a dump station where the pavement is graded away from the receptacle, leaving your RV leaning away from the dump station.
A clear plastic fitting on the end of the sewer hose really helps the process.
Since water doesn’t flow uphill too well, you may have to milk your sewer hose. Follow the instructions listed above, but when you get to step 10, don’t disconnect the hose yet. Close the valve, leave the hose connected then, starting at the RV end of the hose, pick up the hose and force the liquid “uphill” to the dump station.
It’s an awkward arrangement, but basically, you’ll lift the hose as high as you can, forcing the liquid toward the dump station, raising the “outflow” end of the hose, and dropping the RV-end of the hose as you go. You may need to repeat the step several times to empty it out but it works.
If your RV has more than a single gray water system, you’ll want to dump your black water tank first, then the companion gray water system, then reposition the RV to line up the dump valve for the other gray water system.
By following these few steps can spare you a lot of mess. It will also keep dump station owners happy and keep their stations open and accessible for all of us.
My parents, when they built a new house (in which I now live) 30 years ago, had the great foresight, being RVers, to have a dump connection put into the driveway, right next to the garage. When I’m returning from a trip, no worries about finding a place to dump the tanks right before I get home. I just dump at my leisure, in my own driveway 🙂
There’s just one fly in the ointment, one found in many campgrounds, too. I have a RhinoFLEX system with the threaded swivel ends and all, and can (in theory) have a fully sealed dump experience, with no spill risk and no heavy rock required. In theory. The problem is that many dump connections have the threaded part so far below ground level that I can’t get the 90-degree elbow on my hose into it, which means taking off the elbow and finding a handy rock anyway
I’m looking for something to act as an extension to either screw onto the pipe in the ground and get it up near grade level and connect to the 90-degree hose elbow, or to put on the hose in place of the elbow. If anybody knows of such a thing, please let me know. It’d be great to be able to have a fully sealed connection more often than “sometimes” :p
Hi JB,
Without having a look-see and some specific measurements, it’s difficult to give you an easy answer. However, if there is enough room in terms of width, you might be able to use an adapter to screw into the existing drain port threads, then use a chunk of 3” PVC pipe to give enough boost. You’d have to install another piece at the top of the 3” pipe to complete the installation.
Here are a couple of links:
For the 3” adapter to thread down into the existing drain, you could use a NIBCO 4804 Male Adapter H x MIPT – PVC DWV, 3″. Here’s one on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/NIBCO-4804-Male-Adapter-MIPT/dp/B00FK8LM9K
And at the top, you’ll need the reverse fitting. Here a NIBCO 3″ SPG x FIP PVC DWV Female NPT Adapter 4803-2 would do the trick. Sad to say, Amazon doesn’t presently stock them. But here’s a link to another supplier:
http://www.supply.com/nibco-3-in-spg-x-fip-pvc-dwv-female-npt-adapter-4803-2/p487431
Top it off with a threaded cap, and this may do the trick.
I had the same issue:
Rhino Flexible Sewer hose Drain adapter
or Camco 3 in 1 adapter, item 39318
https://www.campingworld.com/rhino-flexible-sewer-hose-drain-adapter–112549.html?cgid=sewer-connection#start=18&sz=12&cgid=maintain-your-rv%2Fsewer%2Fsewer-connection%2Fsewer-adapters-valves-fittings
Pvc fittings, which are the same thread and either 3 or 4 inch sizes, are available at big box stores and others, lots of variables of what can be done to “raise” the “hole in the ground.” Be creative and figure it out or ask, taking a cleaned fitting off your dump hose along to explain what you need.
I have seen a soft rubber cone on Amazon that allows a tight seal between your hose and the receiver no matter how bad it is. Search Amazon and I am sure you will find it.
Flushing/rinsing your black tank after emptying it is a good practice since doing so will remove bits of debris from your tanks level sensors. It is best to do this while the bits are still wet. Some RV’s don’t have a black tank flush hookup. If you don’t, I suggest purchasing a wand that you can put on a water hose and put the other end down into your tank via the toilet.
I do a step after dumping the black tank. Close the black tank valve, have copilot or yourself fill and dump fresh water down the toilet twice. This adds enough water to aid any residual waste. Go back and open black valve once more, close when no more waste exits. Now with tank empty you can charge black tank with one more toilet full of water along with a half cup of your favorite deodorizer. Continue grey tank empty as discussed. I only sanitize the fresh water tank every other year, that’s when the grey tank gets cleansed more thoroughly than just from waste water.
Hi Everyone…
I’ve been ‘following’ this discussion for awhile and nowhere is it mentioned to “Block Open” the potty (#2 (tank). I stick a a cleaner brush in there to hold it open. It is sealed (when closed) to dampen odors so when you “Yank” the #2 slide open…it sucks the black waste tank almost flatout..well… at least a lot faster than waiting for it to “Gurgle” untill the tank empties. That’s why the mount Poupee” builds up. Grey Waste tanks are vented but the #2 Tank is designed to seal the smell of the our waste from our senses…so it’s like sucking a balloon flat. Not good for tank. Oh Yeh! Something else…someone in our household…uses approximately 3/4’s of a roll of toilet paper-right there on top of the pyramid._) So that always helps…when she forgets…but I keep a covered plastic little bucket beside the throne.
Your black vent through the roof must be clogged if you have to block the toilet open to avoid sucking the tank in.
Just went through the same experience where we are now staying.We had previously purchased a soft rubber donut for about 5 dollars.This snugly squashes into the waste hole when your regular connection doesn’t match up to the hole.you then hook your drain end together (if not already there and scruntch the end into the donut that is now in the drain. Almost every time you will get a very tight seal. It should feel very snug when inserting with hose end into the donut.if not you will need to figure a differentway.and don’t forget the rock for safety.
those black foam donuts work great when there are no threads but there is a threaded version too. I bought in a kit long before I found the beloved rhino system. this donut is made of red plastic and is multiple threads and diameters that start small and graduate to larger diameters so that no matter what the connection, it should fit and also serves to extend the height of the connection. I am sorry that I do not know the company, but I promise you its out there. google with images to find it. it works like a charm. good luck everyone.
I have found that from time to time one or all of my tank valves don’t seal fully for whatever reason. When this happens there’s a bit of waste water waiting for me when I remove the outer cap. To solve the problem of having black/gray water spill on the ground while I attach the hose. I now place a gallon bucket below it to catch any leakage that may have occurred. One less mess to deal with during the dumping process.
We have found that the tank flush kit on our rig only marginally helps. What really helps keep things clean is actually running a hose into the rig and streaming water down into the black tank where the much talked about “pyramid’ would form. Then we fill it a bit with the valve closed and open the valve once again watching for success…
Very good instructions, I would only change one thing. On item #6, I recommend opening the gray waste valve for a small test of the connections, not the black valve. That way if there is a leak to correct, at least it’s only a gray leak, not the more dreaded black leak!
Thanks for your input!
Jeff thats the way I do it also learned the hard way
Some folks don’t know or forget about leaving your black tank gate valve closed until the tank is almost full or it’s time to empty it. This will help to avoid the pyramid affect. Also it may prevent a log jam in your sewer hose.
Ditto that suggestion…
This topic seems to attract a lot of comments, and I will pile on. I always dump gray FIRST. I’ve been the first one at the dump station a couple times when the sewer line was blocked. It was nasty, but not as hard as the black tank’s contents. Also, NEVER just open the valve and ‘let er rip’. Run enough gray water until you’re as comfortable as possible knowing the line will accept the entire contents of your tanks. Don’t walk away. Be ready to shut the valve quickly in case something goes wrong. And, for what it’s worth, as a microbiologist I am pretty sure that whatever germs are in your black tank are the same ones that are in your gray tank, so flushing with gray water after dumping the black is mostly pointless; rinsing with fresh water is still necessary. When ‘milking’ the hose, leave the valve open in order to prevent a vacuum in the drain hose that will prevent the hose from draining. Once most of the liquid has drained, then close valve, wait 30 seconds or so for any liquid in the drain line to drip. Then carefully remove the drain hose keeping it directly under the RV connection. Done carefully and correctly, not a drop will escape. Finally, rinse the hose as described. If you can coil your hose connect it to itself end to end and put away. If you wear gloves, learn how to remove them without contaminating your hands, otherwise a good hand washing is all that is needed.
Jeff, I came to the comments to say exactly the same thing! Thank you!
Agree
I see people leaving the campgrounds without utilizing the dump station choosing to dump at a later time. While this may make your departure quicker you are also towing a LOT of unnecessary weight. I also witnessed not to long ago this very thing happen and about 1/2 mile down the road, the straps on an RV black tank failed due to the weight bouncing around. Needless to say, it was NOT a pretty sight !!!
I found absolutely no instructions for use of the black water flush is the RV is so equipped.
Some folks don’t know or forget about leaving your black tank gate valve closed until the tank is almost full or it’s time to empty it. This will help to avoid the pyramid affect. Also it may prevent a log jam in your sewer hose.
I like the gray water test first. Good idea.
I have been told to leave the black valve open when releasing the gray water, because there is a little back wash that will clean the exit area a little more, and it of course empties out. Comments? Pro or con.
Ok
That is what I do.
I do the same think. Empty Black, shut valve. Open Gray open Black to put some water back in that side, close Gray, let Black flush itself, close Black and open gray to finish emptying Gray
Yes we do this also i hold the hose above the tanks to force the gray into the black.
If you don’t have a line behind you at the dump station you can close the black, go in the rv and hold the toilet valve down and put a few more gallons of fresh water in the black tank then go pull the valve again. Then flush with the gray water. Would not recommend doing this if you have a line waiting at the dump station.
I’d add one more thing. More of a courtesy to other campers than anything. Many people add some water or water/deodorant to their black water tank after dumping to keep things sloshing around for the trip home. That’s fine, but if there are people waiting to use the station, please pull up and do this last part without blocking the septic field for other people to use.Come across this minor annoyance too many times.
If you want to slosh things around. When you get ready to leave the campgrounds stop somewhere and get a bag of ice and dump in the nearly empty tank at the stool. It will help scrape the sides and bottom of the black water tank. It’s going to melt anyway and then it just a mater of dumping at the next dump station.
Tests have shown that the advantages of this are nearly all mythical.
Haha. Maybe so unless there actually is some stuck bits that need to be knocked off.
Great Idea
One other thing – always do the dump yourself, or at least by a properly trained person. Your buddy tagging along with you, may be very willing to assist, but may not be trained in the proper procedure.
I asked a professional that pumps out septic system tanks if the formaldehyde based black tank chemicals was a problem for a home septic system. He said absolutely not. The response may have been due to the infrequent dumping that I would do at home, but contradicts some statement I see by RV owners on forums.
When dumping at the campground site, I move quickly and efficiently. Then I flush the black tank via the black tank flush hook up. Not doing this asap will allow any debris still in the tank to dry up during the ride home. The people in line will have to wait an extra 5 minutes.
our daughter is the office manager of a large Wisconsin RV dealership; her advice to us, and to new owners of RV’s with waste tanks? use plain, clean water-fill the black tank with water from your garden hose. then do the same with your grey water tank….go to the nearest dump station and do a PRACTICE RUN….if you goof up with clear, clean water-no shame no foul…. add color to the water if you feel the need….
worked GREAT FOR US….we also carry our own weight to put on the discharge pipe; JUST IN CASE there is not one at the dump station.
thanks daughter!!
After I dump the black tank, I close the black tank valve, then at least partially refill the black tank with fresh water via the clean out connection on my unit, then dump it again. That way, there’s a “pressure head” to flush out all the black residue. Sometimes it take refilling it twice until I get consistently clear water out of the black tank. That should eliminate any black residue in the tank to create odor. If you don’t have a clean out connection, you’ll have to run a hose down the toilet to refill it. This is especially important if this is the last dump before storing the unit for any extended period. Then I put a couple gallons of clean water and some “Tank Techs” probiotic in the tank to slosh around for the next driving period, and during storage.
Careful on that storage if it’s at the end of the season and you are in cold country as that tank liquid will freeze up stream of the valves and they will break, I always leave the valves open and the cap-caps off so no liquid is trapped to present problems next season, Liquid can be in some areas in the tanks that didn’t drain out until you’ve moved the unit to the storage area/spot, drive around the block then drain once again.
Remember, you have to be smarter than what your working with and common sense isn’t printed in any book.
When we rinse our black water tank, we also add a scoop of Oxyclean to the “rinse water”. We often then flush the tank a second time. Our tanks, both black and gray, stay spotless and smelling fresh…..and we live in our rig full-time, so we dump about every 10 days or so.
I always put a little RV antifreeze in the black water and grey water tanks after final emptying and line flushing with anifreeze prior to cold weather winter storage. Prevents any freezing problems.
The best way to dump tanks is good…BUTT (😱)…I find it best after making the hook ups as suggested, I prefer to open the GRAY VALVE FIRST…butt only enough to make sure there are no leaks. It’s more pleasant to address a connection/ hose leak with GRAY WATER than trying to shut off the BLACK TANK VALVE that may be squirting like a bad lawn sprinkler…just me after experimenting and watch the panic of others in a hurry. Trying to dump fast is not always the best way to manage sewage. Travel safe, stay healthy 🤗
I found and use a transparent elbow between the RV and flex sewer line. The elbow has 3 features: 1). You can see the flow as the tank empties, 2) it has a slide valve at the flex sewer attachment point, and 3) it has an attachment for a garden hose and includes a shut off valve where the hose attaches. This arrangement lets you have water assisting the tank draining, and then by closing the slide valve at the flex hose, you can back flush into the tank and then open the slide valve and see what further stuff comes out of the tank. Repeat until no more stuff comes out, then close the slide valve to the tank and move on to the gray water tank. GREAT DEVICE!!!
Harvey, would you happen to have the make/model of that device, or even an Amazon link?
Thanks!
Exactly what I do, as well. I would imagine that, if the hose has enough water pressure, it could also help open a clogged tank. I had one once and could not get it cleared. That was before I bought the aforementioned elbow with hose attachment. I do believe that would have solved my problem.
Most RV dump valves have a rubber seal, a big O ring, that keeps the black water from leaking through the valve. I know the electric valves on my MH do and they can get very sticky if not lubricated, refusing to open or being very difficult to manually open. After dumping, put a couple of cups of cooking oil in the tank and let it slosh around while you drive, lubricating the inside face of the valve that the O ring slides over. Solves the stick issue and makes the chore a bit slicker.
Cooking oil leaves a residue which becomes very sticky over time. Ask any cook or baker. Silicone sprayed from the outside may be better. Anyone else have an idea?
To the writers-
Thank you SO much for not advocating flushing of the black tank.
Too many people go through a long drawn out process to “clean” their black tank at the dump station.
This is extremely rude if people are wating in line for you to finish.
I’ve had 14 RV’s in 45 years and have NEVER had a need to flush a black tank.
If you feel the need to flush your tank PLEASE do it when no one is waiting.
Your black vent through the roof must be clogged if you have to block the toilet open to avoid sucking the tank in.
Something else to consider is changing out the cap that comes with your unit to one that has the hose adapter built in, that way instead of opening the 3″ cap you can open the 3/4″ one and if there is any liquid in the pipe it is easily caught by holding the hose under it.
All good info. I have added a Valterra Twist On RV Waste Valve to all my rigs which is great in case one of your gray or black valves winds up leaking a little. It allows you to hook the hose up without a mess. Also recommend putting 5-10 gallons of water (depending on the size of your holding tank) in your black tank before camping. Lots of water will help break up t/p.
You forgot Step 15. Place disposal gloves in the garbage don’t leave them laying at the dump station. If necessary place in a plastic bag and take them with you to dispose of.
Great article! BUT…once connection is made the first thing you do is open the GREY water and douche 5 gallons of grey. if everything is OK ….let the Black go.
Ey wrote a little song about a little mishap in a resort campground in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, last week.
I’ve got the camper dump blues
It got all over my shoes
The hose broke
It’s no joke
I’ve got the dump station blues
I’ve got the Sani-dump blues. (what they call it in the Yukon)
Ey held my nose
Thru away my shoes and pants
Did a little dance
I’ve got the black tank blues
Had a spare hose to finish the job. Washed everything down with Clorox. This dump station was in the gravel road with people camped on both sides. There were about a dozen people close by sitting by their fire and having drinks. They disappeared quickly. Don’t know if it was the fragrance or my colorful language which included reference to fornication, deities, offspring of a female dog, bull manure, and a few others. It was an expensive hose from Camper World about 2 years old. Every time used, it got sprayed down with Clorox bleach cleaner. The bleach must have weakened the plastic hose. It was not wire reinforced. From now on going to get a new hose every year and not use bleach.
It happens.
After 51 yrs of RVing , I guess it’s safe to say I’ve experienced or at least seen most sewer hose problems. I solved pretty much all of them by using a macerator with an attached fresh water clean out fitting and 3/4″ commercial hose. The hose can be cut to a few shorter lengths and fitted with good brass “repair” ends so you only have to use the length necessary to reach the dump port. The macerator twists onto the dump valves just like a sewer hose. Two wires run to the rigs battery. It’s a simple, clean and fairly quick system.
If my trailer is going to be stored for awhile between trips in above freezing weather, I put 5 or so gallons of fresh water into the black tank and throw in 1/4 box of Rid-X. The bacteria takes care of any solids left in the tank. I leave it in there till the tank has to be flushed again from use.
I carry a couple of empty 1 gallon water jugs in the camper, also carry Calgon Water Softener, Dawn Dish detergent,and Tank sanitizer. Before we break camp I’ll fill the jugs with clear water. After I dump my tanks, I’ll dump a couple of ounces of the Calgon, Dawn, and Sanitizer into the Black water tank, dump the water (from the jugs) into the Black water tank. (I do this treatment after I leave the dump site…..courtesy). As we travel to the next camping location or home, the Calgon and Dawn slosh around adding to tank cleanliness, and lubricating the tank , so that no waste materials can stick to the walls or floor of the tank. The Sanitizer keeps the tank fresh.
All good ideas, consider visiting a good Janitorial supply shop and asking for a Bacterial Tank treatment like Aqua Bac or similar, have used on my boat and it worked well and also on my Motor Homes and now my 5th wheel The solution I get can be mixed with water 50/50 and has a pleasant odour, I use it in a spray bottle as a toilet cleaner and the extra bacteria action will help the digestive process between dump station visits.
We are the only species on the planet that carries our shit with us. And this blog explains perfectly well why we shouldn’t, but still do.
After 50+ years of RVing have finally found the best darn RV sewer hose for dump station use.. Prest-O-Fit DuraFoam hose is a very durable retractable rigid heavy wall plastic hose. No more messing with an unwieldy hose that ends up leaking. I have both the short and longer versions which easily fit into my 4” bumper for storage. After 6-7 years they are still like new. These are unlike any other sewer hose I’ve seen/used. The 10’ version is on Amazon for $28. Look for the orange hose.
On another note, have heard a great way to clean black tank sensors is to put a cup of fabric softener into an empty tank and fill 1/3rd with water. Take a one hour ride to slosh around, then dump. Have not tried yet – interested in comments from others that have tried.
Some folks don’t know or forget about leaving your black tank gate valve closed until the tank is almost full or it’s time to empty it. This will help to avoid the pyramid affect. Also it may prevent a log jam in your sewer hose.
I like a tip I heard a while back. Convention wisdom has RVers dumping their black tank first. I now do it SLIGHTLY different. I open my GRAY dump valve for about FIVE SECONDS and then shut it. This wets (lubricates) the inside of the sewer hose but, more importantly, CHECKS FOR LEAKS WITH GRAY WATER! Once I’ve confirmed that all my connections are tight, I then open the black tank valve and allow the black water to drain completely. I the finish up by emptying the gray water tank.
When there is a lineup at the dump station I don’t wait for the last liter or pint to leave the tank. There is nothing to be gained by holding the line up. Occasionally lifting the drain hose and listening to the flow tells me when the tank is near to empty.
We swapped out our factory end cap with one that has a garden hose connection. Unlike some folks, we don’t use it to dump gray water under our rig while actively enjoying camp site. In my opinion, legally disposing of grey water while boondocking is acceptable, but it should be done away from the actual campsite, and any solids (micro food scraps from dishes, for example) should be burried or (better yet) hauled out with your trash.
The garden hose threads on the waste line cap do allow us to safely confirm that there is not any material built up behind the cap itself.
Our first step in the tank emptying process is to stretch out the 3″ waste hose, putting one end in the dump station receptacle and leaving the other (RV end) laying on the ground next to the RV connection point. After checking to be sure all the RV’s dump valves are closed, our second step is to slightly loosen the garden hose connection cap to see if there is anything behind the large cap, which would show up as a SLIGHT drip. There are several reasons (gate valves not fully closed, gate seal failures, vandals, etc.) that there MIGHT be material behind the big cap. If, by chance, there is material there it is easy to drain the residue through the small garden hose opening into the open end of the 3″ waste hose, which is already connected at the other end to the dump station. If/when there’s no water at the garden hose cap we begin the “normal” process and fully drain all tanks. Luckily, we have never had any buildup behind the large dump cap…but the safety aspect of the small garden hose is worthwhile “…just in case”.
The garden hose adapter cap is inexpensive:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Durable-Connection-Connection-39463/dp/B000BQKBP2/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_6?keywords=rv+dump+cap+with+garden+hose+connection&qid=1558632716&s=gateway&sr=8-6-fkmrnull
Get this — Upon returning from a week of camping, we were driving right by our new motor home dealership, so my hubby decided to use their dump (can’t remember now, why we didn’t dump @ the campsite; dump was probably closed, or something)…
So, we pull up, & he goes inside, to ensure we don’t have to have an employee overseeing things, or whatever. The woman in Service tells him, “Of coursed you can dump here; it’s TEN DOLLARS.”
My hubby’s jaw dropped & he asks her, “Even though we bought our RV here?!” She then just HAS tro say to him, “YES, and it’s NOT like we’re making any money off of you!” Apparently a little argument then ensued, between the two of them…
We were on our way home, exhausted, & really had no other choice, so we paid the $10, but then probably waited 10 mins, for some old codger to come out, stand there, and watch! Yep, that was it.
So, the next day, I wrote a letter to the GM – yep! I even stated in my letter, “You know, we WOULD have just let this go, but your ****** (I stated her name) just HAD to remark that you’re NOT making any money off of us (like over $90,000.00 wasn’t enough?!), & then argued with my husband. The GM didn’t reply back, BUT… I have NOT seen that particular individual behind the Service Desk, since.
Don’t dump at BIG COUNTRY RV IN REDMOND, OREGON, unless you want to pay ten bucks!
In step #6 I open my gray value fully first to determine if there is a possible leak, not the black. Then follow with your recommendations. I rather have a failure with gray than the black of any kind. Russ consider changing you well written list if you agree.
To really avoid a mess…open the gray water first to let some through the hose to make sure all connections are tight then close the gray. Open the black secure that they don’t leak.
Once the hose is connected, I first open the grey valve briefly to make certain connections are good. If so, close the gray valve and then open the black valve to empty the black tank.
A lot of good posts and information. We are experienced RV’ers and have had 5 class A’s. My comment is that all of us RV’ers spend up to $300+ for one tire, thousands for repairs and towing, insurance, oil changes and batteries. I just think that $10 to dump a load of waste is a great deal if you are in a bind to find a free place. We drove into a campground just to dump and not stay overnight and they wanted $60. Maybe that is enough to get angry over; but, not $10. Life is to short.
Another suggestion for cleaning the sensors in your black water tank is to add a quarter cup of Borax and a quarter cup of Dawn liquid dish soap to a few gallons of water and drive around for a few miles. Also carry an regular garden hose with you for your black water tank flush. A lot of dump stations have a hose, but the end has been run over and cut off. And I’m a firm believer in the external gate valve to allow you to hook up with removing a cap from your sewer dump line.