On a long, isolated stretch of the Alaska Highway at historical mile 496, between Fort Nelson, BC, and Watson Lake, Yukon, there is a hidden oasis in the lush muskeg of the northern Rocky Mountains.
The Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park includes two beautiful hot springs pools and a Provincial campground amid the natural beauty of the spruce trees of the northern boreal forests. From the campground, a half-mile wander along boardwalks take you into the forest to the rustic hot springs.
Relax in the natural beauty of the Alpha Pool at Liard Hot Springs. (Photo credit Wikipedia/Lee Tengum)
Only the Alpha pool is open to public use; the Beta pool, another half mile hike from the Alpha pool, is now closed to human use and reserved exclusively for the wild bruin visitors.
Sharing the muskeg and warm waters with you are fourteen different species of orchid, ostrich ferns, yellow monkey flower, over 100 different species of birds, bears, moose, and other wildlife that make the warmth of the hot springs their home.
A species of lake chub fish, uniquely adapted to the warm waters, dart back and forth under the boardwalk access as you approach the hot springs pool.
The Liard Hot Springs is Canada’s second largest hot springs with temperatures in the Alpha Pool ranging from 107-125°F. Boardwalks serve as access routes, and visitors must stay on them at all times to avoid damaging the sensitive environment.
There is a visitor center at the gatehouse for information about the Provincial Park. During the summer months, a restaurant provides food service within the park, as well as the Liard Lodge located on the other side of the Alaskan Highway.
Soaking in the hot springs during the winter months provides serene beauty and few crowds. (Photo credit Wikipedia)
The area was historically called “Tropical Valley” and was used as a traditional cleansing location by the Athabaskan people. The Laird River was a popular trade route during the 1800s, and traders used the Hot Springs as a rest area much as they are used by travelers on the Alaskan Highway today.
Liard Hot Springs are unique in that they are not directly related to a river, even though the Liard River is nearby. It is believed that the Liard Hot Springs are related to a major fault system paralleling the valley floor. The naturally occurring groundwater seeps down through the sedimentary bedrock, where it is heated by subsurface geothermal sources.
The build-up of pressure from the heated water then forces it back up through the faults as hot springs. Calcium carbonate and Tufa limestone deposits form from when the minerals contained in the hot water are exposed to the oxygen in the air.
Both the campground and hot springs are open year round and can get very crowded during the summer months. Campsites cost $26(CN)/night during the summer months and $16(CN)/night in the off-season.
The campsite cost includes free access to the hot springs, which otherwise are $5(CN) for adults or $10(CN) for families for day-use. Campground reservations from May through September are recommended.
The Provincial campground has 53 dry campsites that can accommodate RVs and fifth wheels. Because of its remote location (about 3.5 hours drive from Fort Nelson), there is no internet or cell coverage, so plan on relaxing and enjoying the show that nature provides.
Additional camping can be found at the Liard Hot Springs Lodge and RV Park across the highway from the Provincial Park and campground, or about 50 minutes south at Muncho Lake Provincial Park..
One of our favorite stops traveling north. We spent our 50th Anniversary here. I’d love to see it in the winter!
when I was there 50 + years ago we had to stop there because the bridge was out, quite common back then spent 2 weeks no showers back then, no campground back then, so hair stood up and I mean straight up from all the sulphur. Other item we had to watch for was bears and not just little black ones but the big ones with a hump on neck/ shoulder area other item to watch for was mad male moose. Next shower was Ft. Saint John and oh that shower was better than Laird. Even back then they made you pay in Quarters for the shower $1 got 5minutes so filled $5 into the meter and had a great shower.
We spent a night at Liard Hot Springs on our return from Alaska. The campground is great and the hot springs pool even better. We were so relaxed after soaking that we went back to the RV for a nap! It is one of the best places to relax on the entire route to Alaska–no cell phone service, no TV, no shopping, and no cruise ship passengers!
Watch out for the black bears. A few years ago some people who were soaking there were attacked. Killed 1 and wounded others. Bear ate the dead guy while others were being helped. Also watch out for the Moose.
Not shown in the photo are the changing rooms that have been added. You can now wear your warm dry clothes down the boardwalk to the hot spring area and change into your swim suit there.
We camped overnight in a tent July 1999 during a move from Alaska to California. Springs were actually too hot in places. But we enjoyed anyway.
Next morning we were eaten alive by mosquito swarms. Threw tent, gear, and family into Explorer as fast as I could. Once sealed inside, we killed mosquitoes inside the car for 40 minutes. Smashed mosquitoes left blood stains on the headliner (our blood) as a permanent reminder.
Hot springs mean mosquitoes don’t die in the winter.
We camped in our motorcoach at the campground, and enjoyed the springs! Now, THIS is a true hot spring! The walk thru the campground, and then quite a ways down the long boardwalk is a little long, but the views on the boardwalk, thru the waterlogged and tree filled muscog, and finally to the springs. Moose tracks could easily be found all around the boardwalk as they certainly walk thru the area.
The hot springs are terrific, truly a ‘hot’ springs natural pool, with the ‘heat’ is at the head of the spring, but cooler ‘hot’ waters are downstream toward the other end of the pool, which overflows down to another pool, which is really more ‘warm’ water many choose to lounge in.
The campground is truly dry, meaning nothing at each site to hook up to, only a water spigot periodically thru the grounds for everyone to share – they are the ‘hand pump’ type, with no outlet to connect to, only the ability to fill a bowl or jug. One negative is the generator usage rules. While the entrance ‘sign’ says that ‘Quiet Hours are 11p to 7a’, that is NOT the generator hours. The generator run hours are between 8a to 9a, and 6p to 8p only(?)… wow, that’s pretty restrictive, especially since it doesn’t restrict loud music, kids running around late at night, or loud partying next door, all while you ‘can’t’ run your generator(apparently ‘they’ make too much noise?)… oh well.
All in all, it’s a terrific one night stop over on your way to Alaska – don’t miss it!
We first stopped there in 1958, when driving up the Alaska Highway, the road was all gravel at that time.
There was no board walk, or change facilities.
There were four pools, cool, hot, hotter, and near boiling.
The hot springs were first developed by the workers building the Alaska ( Allcan Highway).
The original dam’s were made by stacking unopened bags of cement, across the stream , creating the pools.
Bathing was restricted to the lower pool, so the soap suds would drain down, and not bother swimmers in the next pool up.
I remember one women next to me, her dress floating around her, scrubbing her nether parts. She apologized for making so much soap suds.
We have been there a few times since., over the years.
Yes, one mother was killed fighting off a bear to protect her 12 year old son.
There were as well the time a bunch of idiots with folding chairs , tried to force a bear into the pools.
Unfortunately, there is no law against stupidity.
Doug Lorenze
Was there this summer (2019). Stayed at the RV park across the highway.
Had to dodge the Bison in the parking lot!
The hot springs themselves were fabulous. Very relaxing – slept well.
Was so good we stopped on the way back too!
The “new” changerooms make it a better experience when weather not cooperative.