RV LIFE Writers Share Their Best Camping Tips For New RVers

Essential Camping Tips for Newbies from RV LIFE Writers

With the recent surge in new RVers, RV rentals, and the RV lifestyle in general, there is an entirely new audience hungry for camping tips information. Unfortunately, a deluge of misinformation often accompanies these new users that turn to social media for “advice.”  In response, many of the RV LIFE writing staff collaborated to share their best camping tips for new RVers.

First, Know How to buy an RV

When purchasing an RV, whether new or used, decisions made at the time will have a lasting impact. These camping tips apply to every new RVer, whether you are purchasing a travel trailer, 5th wheel, or motorhome.

Shop around for an extended warranty

“Extended warranties aren’t necessarily a bad thing. But at time of purchase, they are pure profit for your dealer and are often way overpriced. A new buyer tends not to feel the pinch quite as much as the cost is usually rolled into your RV payment.

When you’re sitting at the closing desk ready to sign the paperwork and the extended warranty has been “conveniently” rolled in, it’s tough to say no. There is a LOT of paperwork, and you are ready to hit the road, not sit in the finance office. 

Instead, shop around for an extended warranty for your new motorhome, 5th wheel, or travel trailer. By eliminating the middleman, you’ll usually get a better deal. It also helps with the long term relationship between you and your dealer. If a warranty repair gets denied by the warranty your dealer sold you it can sour the relationship and build animosity and distrust between you and your dealer.”

Take a camping tips and RVer class

There is actually a buyers bootcamp you can take to help you understand the processes and do’s and don’ts of buying an RV. A collaboration of popular YouTubers, these RV experts offer RVMasterclasses, including one specific to buying an RV called the Buyers Bootcamp.

Another option are the excellent materials created by Mark & Dawn Polk at RV Education 101. Materials are top notch and presented by veteran experts in the RV industry.

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

Used RVs can be an excellent value

“There’s nothing like the look, feel, and smell of a new RV. I know, because we purchased our first RV brand new and made to order. We loved that rig, but when we signed on for the RV loan we didn’t realize the value of our beautiful new fifth wheel would quickly sink like the Titanic.

We learned new RV camping tips the hard way. Unless you’re buying a luxury coach, a new RV is just like a new car: its value depreciates the moment you drive it off the dealer lot. In a few years, you can usually buy that same rig for about half the price of new! Smart RV buyers know: if you have your heart set on a new RV, it makes better financial sense to look around for a comparable model that’s already been depreciated.”

– Rene Agredano  – RVing 14 years, owns a 27 ft. fifth wheel towed by a Dodge RAM 2500 4×4 

Check tire age, manufacturer, and inflation

“Buyers looking to pull an RV should verify the maximum towing capacity for your vehicle, and triple check the weight specifications for the RV. Remember that a dry weight specified for the trailer does not include water, supplies, or gear. Always consider an anti-sway hitch when buying a travel trailer. Failure to do so will often result in an accident. Excessive speed, overloading, and poor weight distribution can also lead to an accident when towing.

When buying a travel trailer, new RV buyers should seriously consider replacing the tires on their new RV. Though it sounds ludicrous to those that have never purchased a small camper or travel trailer, everything is literally riding on those tires and cheap imports combined with poor inflation practices can make for a bad combination.

All RV buyers should check the month and year of manufacture stamped on every tire. It’s not uncommon to buy a new RV with two-year-old tires! Depending on the climate you live in tires may only be good for 5 years, usually succumbing to dry rot and cracking long before the miles take their toll.”

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

Take some time to decide which RV you actually need

“Purchasing your first RV can be a big decision. It’s a blast to get caught up in the latest YouTube videos or Instagram posts on your favorite Airstream, fifth wheel, truck camper, or van, but take a little extra time to really figure out what type of RV is best for you and your family. Ask yourself these questions: 

• Are both you and your current vehicle comfortable towing a larger travel trailer? 
• Do you really need a brand new RV (they do lose a lot of value in the first year after purchase)? 
• Are you comfortable working on an older RV? 
• Do you really need a shower/bathroom/extra storage or can you live without it? 
• Do you want to be constantly on the move with a van or Class B, or do you want to park your travel trailer or fifth wheel and then do some local exploring in your tow vehicle? 

Going over the pros and cons of different rigs will narrow down what will work best for you.”

– Christina Nellemann, RVing 14 years, tows a 13-foot Burro fiberglass trailer with a Kia Sportage

Go for the warranty with roadside assistance 

“We bought the particular RV we did because of the manufacturer 2-year warranty. We were going to be living full-time in our RV and wanted very few unexpected expenses as we rolled our home across the country. One of my favorite camping tips is to think of your RV as an earthquake on wheels and it will help you understand that things can break especially when going over rough roads.

Add that to normal wear and tear or a faulty product and the expenses can add up. Make sure to schedule a service appointment with the dealer well in advance of your warranty expiration date to get all fixed up on their dime! Go over your list with them so they can have all parts ready to avoid having to leave your rig for an extended period of time, especially if you are full-timing.

We loved the peace of mind our warranty offered us. We even purchased an extended warranty which has more than paid for itself after our 2-year manufacturer warranty expired. We did go with the company that the dealer recommended, and now after reading Patrick’s recommendation, we wished we had shopped it around.

Regardless, we have been happy with the service we’ve received and especially the roadside assistance aspect. When we broke down with a broken leaf spring we called the warranty company and they sent a repair tech and took care of payment.”

– Tina Klinefelter, RVing 19 years (3.5 years full-time), tows a 40-foot Jayco Pinnacle fifth wheel with a Ford F350

Keep cool on the road with appliance camping tips

Run the refrigerator while driving

“Once you are on the way to your destination, a new RVer will often ask if they can run their refrigerator while driving? The answer is yes! You need to keep your food and drinks cold. 

Refrigerators in small campers often have three operation modes: AC, DC, and propane. If you are worried about battery drain, you can run those fridges on propane while driving. Many new refrigerators run only on 12 volts, and with today’s modern batteries, it shouldn’t pose any problems for a normal day’s drive. For the absorption refrigerators so often used in RVs, inexpensive small fans are available to put inside your refrigerator to help circulate the air and make the cooling process more efficient.

Residential RV refrigerators

New RVers that dive right into the deep end and buy a Class A motorhome often enjoy the convenience of a full residential refrigerator. These fridges should be left on and running, powered by the battery and inverter combination or the onboard generator these land yachts typically are equipped with. I’ve driven all day (about 7 hours) with our residential refrigerator running only on the 6 house batteries and the inverter, without running the generator.

Plug-in 24-48 hours before you go

Regardless of your refrigeration method, getting them plugged in and cooled down before your trip is important. You’ll want to do this at least 24-48 hours before you hit the road. You can usually plug into your standard 110 outlets at home with the use of adapters called dog bones. You may need more than one, depending on whether you have a 30 amp or 50 amp RV.

Run the generator while driving

Motorhome buyers often ask if they can run their generator while driving. The camping tips answer is a resounding yes. This practice will keep your house batteries charged and those AC appliances running, like that residential refrigerator. It will also allow you to run at least one of the rooftop air conditioning units so you can keep your passengers cool on those hot summer days.”

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

Use frozen water bottles or other frozen beverages

“After more than a decade of learning camping tips at Burning Man and in the desert southwest, we have learned how to keep our food and drinks cold on the road. If you are using a cooler, fill it first with a layer of either frozen water bottles, or our personal favorite at Burning Man, frozen cans of Kerns Nectar juice cans, and then place your food or other drinks on top.

The Kerns juice cans take several days to defrost and then are ready to drink for hot days. If you get a craving for them sooner, grab one that is nearly defrosted and cut it open with a pair of scissors for a ready-made fruit smoothie.”

– Christina Nellemann, RVing 14 years, tows a 13-foot Burro fiberglass trailer with a Kia Sportage

Camping tips for driving or pulling your RV

“We have been RVing for twenty years. Before buying this Canyon Star we drove a 1999 33’ Rexhall Class A Motorhome. We have flat towed an SUV for most of that time except for a brief (and I mean brief) stretch when we first started our full-time journey over 3 years ago.  At that time we had a Chrysler Town and Country van and it could not be towed flat (meaning 4 wheels on the ground) so we decided to tow it by using a tow dolly.  

That was a stupid and costly decision and I’ll explain why these camping tips are essential.  We had no experience with tow dollies, but had seen them used by other RVers for years so we assumed that this method of towing would be viable.  I know there are going to be many readers who will disagree with me on this point, but I have to say that the tow dolly was the worst RV experience we have had in 20 years. 

We had to buy the tow dolly, have our RV mechanic assemble the dolly and get it set-up for our van, which was almost too large to fit on this new, oversized, and expensive dolly.  Every time we had to get the van on or off the dolly it was time-consuming and cumbersome.

Turning around with a tow dolly is difficult!

Then once we did get it set-up, it felt like we needed an empty football field to get the rig all the way around a 360-degree turn and we were terrified that we would get into a situation, (in a gas station, parking lot, or campground) where we would not be able to make the entire turn because if we could only get part way around the turn we would be in real trouble.

RVs can’t be backed-up when towing a dolly. But if we were only able to get partway around the turn, with the axle of the dolly cranked to the side, the wheels of the van were no longer lined up with the ramps of the tow dolly, so backing the car off the tow dolly was impossible.

But here’s the dilemma, the van had to be removed from the dolly in order to remove the dolly from the rig, so the rig could be backed up to avoid the obstacle in front of it.  It was a catch twenty-two. This was a constant fear. That we’d get in this jam and we couldn’t go forward, we couldn’t back up, we couldn’t remove the van from the dolly, and most certainly we’d be blocking. 

It was terrifying and we almost got into that very situation in a parking lot along a scenic byway.  It took the entire empty parking lot to turn our rig around and I still only missed the big boulder in front of us, by inches. If there had been other vehicles in the lot or I had started my turn a second later, we would have needed a tow truck to get our van off the dolly, so we could remove the dolly from the motorhome, so we could back the coach up.

Now you’re getting an idea of why this method of towing caused us to be nervous wrecks.  When flat towing, a person can still get into a situation where they can’t make the full turn (although the turning circumference is much tighter with a flat towed vehicle). In that situation, you can just remove the tow vehicle and back them both up.

I have only had to do that one time in 20 years, in a gas station that had a trench dug across the exit. It happens.  But when you’re towing on a dolly, it’s a completely different problem.

Tow dolly vs. flat tow

When you tow flat, the vehicle behind your rig just goes where your rig does. If you clear the gas pumps with your rig, you know that the flat towed vehicle will also clear the pumps.  These camping tips are not necessarily true with a vehicle on a tow dolly.

Additionally, when you flat tow the vehicle behind the motorhome is always centered behind your rig, and you can only see it in the backup camera.  But when you’re towing with a dolly you may look in the left side mirror and see the side of your tow vehicle then later you’ll see it in your right mirror. 

From this, you realize that it’s not always directly centered behind your motorhome and that can be very unsettling if you’re driving on a narrow, winding, country road, with no shoulder and steep embankments.  

Our constant fear was that the tires of the tow vehicle would catch on the edge of the pavement and drag the coach into the ditch or that we’d come around a tight corner meeting oncoming traffic and the van would be too far to the left and actually be in the opposing traffic lane. Driving with the tow dolly was unbelievably stressful but the stress wasn’t over when we stopped. 

We had to camp in places that had room for the rig, the tow dolly, and the van. The dolly weighed over 600 pounds and we manually moved it to the side of our campsites, but if there was any slop, it was very difficult to pull this heavy dolly back up the slope to the rig. It also meant that we had to hook it up to the RV right there at the campsite and we were usually blocking the interior roads in the campground which was inconvenient for other campers and nerve-racking for us.  

Finally, once we got the van up on the dolly and strapped down, we learned the hard way that you need to stop after driving for a few miles to retighten the straps on the tires.  We did not know this when we first started using the tow dolly and one time, after a long day on the road, as we pulled into the campground the van slipped off the front of the dolly and got wedged there.  It took what seemed like forever (because we were blocking the entrance to the campground) to free the van from the dolly and it crushed the side of the van in the process.  

We nicknamed the tow dolly “The Bomb” because it felt like we were dragging around a destructive device behind us.  After only one month of dealing with all this aggravation and tension, we knew that the tow dolly was a BAD IDEA and it had to go. 

We didn’t really want to spend the money on a different set-up but we could see that a dolly just wasn’t working for us, and we felt like it was only a matter of time before something really disastrous would happen because of the dolly.  Long story short. We sold it all, bought a flat towable Jeep, and never looked back, or more precisely, we never saw our tow vehicle in the side mirrors again.  

– Peggy Dent  – Drives a 2019 Newmar Canyon Star, 38ft Class A gas motorhome

Camping tips for pulling a 5th wheel or travel trailer

Take care of your wheels and tires before you tow.  

• There is literally a lot riding on your wheels, so make sure they are in good shape and at the manufacturer’s recommended levels
• Use a torque wrench and check torque and re-torque if necessary 
• Inflate tires to recommended tire pressure.
• Don’t exceed the manufacturer’s suggested weight limits.

 

Pay attention to load limits for tow vehicle and for your trailer

• Don’t overload.  
• Include everything but air (water, gear, humans, and pets) in your weight calculations.

Quick camping tips for backing your trailer into a parking spot: 

• Set up a traffic cone on either side of the exact place you want to back into to make precision backing much easier. 
• When backing up, decide where you want the trailer to go, and turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction.
• Be patient. Get out and check the trailer’s course as often as you need to and make any necessary adjustments.

 

– Lynne Fedorick– Pulls “The Arfpod” 2018 Forest River RPod 180 with a Nissan xTerra

Driving a large fifth wheel isn’t just for the guys

“Towing a large fifth wheel can be so overwhelming. I get it. If I had wanted to be a tractor-trailer operator I would have chosen that profession. That’s how I imagined towing our new big hunk of metal was gonna feel like—terrifying! It was this fear that kept me from taking the wheel myself. I let my husband take on this role—one he loves—without a thought until everything changed.

We were staying at an RV park in Durango, CO a couple years ago when the 416 fire broke out. We had a front-row seat to all the action from our RV. The fire was moving in one direction one day and then towards us the next day. My husband was traveling for business and I was alone with our 2 cats and I didn’t know how to drive the rig to get us out of harm’s way!

This is when I realized what a big mistake I’d made in not learning to hook up and drive the rig myself. All I could do was put the cats and I in the truck and get out of there and leave our home behind. Thankfully my husband returned in time for us to relocate safely. I then learned how to drive the rig and it wasn’t half as scary as I thought it would be. Morale to this story is “don’t be a Tina” and learn how to drive your rig before you are in a situation where you have to and you are not prepared.” 

– Tina Klinefelter, RVing 19 years (3.5 years full-time), tows a 40-foot Jayco Pinnacle fifth wheel with a Ford F350

Weigh stations 

“RVs, even the big rig motorhomes, do not need to stop at weigh stations. New Mexico is often cited as a great example of having a compelling enough warning sign that is so enticing, you feel like you must pull into the weigh station. If you do, they will all gather at the booth window to stare at you, laugh, and wave you on. Don’t ask me how I know.”

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

Keep an eye on the weather

“Someone once told me that if they ever needed to know what the weather was that particular day, he would ask a seasoned RVer. After full-time RVing for six years, I’d like to think that my husband and I have joined the ranks of traveling weather watchers.

However, you don’t need to be a veteran RVer to know what the weather will be on a daily basis. Knowing what your driving conditions will be on any given travel day is essential! Failing to check the weather conditions before hitting the road could lead to unnecessary situations ranging from delays to fatal catastrophes. 

Excessive wind advisories, major storm watches with rain, snow or sleet, and tornado warnings should not be ignored. We learned rather quickly to keep abreast of the weather forecast in areas we were planning to travel through after first sliding off an icy road and another time getting caught in a snowstorm.

Third time’s a charm. We each installed a couple of weather apps on our smartphones and dutifully tracked weather systems on our route, making sure to stop for a few days to let a storm pass and taking advantage of mileage on clear days with little to no wind.”

– Natalie Henley, Full-time RVing for 6 years, drives a 26-foot Itasca Sunstar Class A 

Stopping for fuel

Fuel stops for diesel motorhomes

“Fueling up a large diesel motorhome is often easier than fueling up a long travel trailer. A diesel pusher motorhome can slide right into the diesel truck lanes available at every Loves, Flying J, Pilot and other large truck stops. Be sure and follow truck stop etiquette and pull forward after fueling.

Once you pull ahead up to the line, then you can take a quick bathroom break, refresh your beverage, or double-check your directions. Occasionally, I’ve seen a trucker take extra long getting snacks or paying for fuel inside when they knew I was behind them.

It’s annoying, but nothing you can do about it. Remember these guys drive for a living and you probably don’t. You are on their turf, their rules. I’ve seen this maybe 3 times in six years, so nothing to worry about.”

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

Fuel stops for gas motorhomes

“The stepchildren of the fuel stop family are large rigs powered by gasoline engines. Despite your size, you won’t be welcome at the diesel pump, for obvious reasons. However, most typical gas stations have fairly tight quarters. Finding a pump island that allows enough room for a large gasser to fill up and extricate themselves easily can be tricky business. It’s times like this where you’ll hope you learned about “tail swing” before hitting the road. Some of the larger truck stops chains offer RV lanes that are intended to make this process a bit easier for assets. 

When it comes to camping tips for fueling up a large motorhome, it’s best to plan ahead with a tool like RV LIFE Trip Wizard that can help you find pumps, as well as offer a satellite and street view to vet those locations out carefully.”

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

Fueling up a large diesel pickup truck

“Remember these three things when you stop to fuel up and you’ll spare yourself the agony of some common diesel pump misadventures:

1. Know the exact height of your RV, from the ground to the top of your air conditioning unit. This number will save you from colliding with a low fuel station canopy that was built in the dark ages. 
2. Assess the fuel station layout before pulling in. Many are built without consideration for large RVs, making it technically challenging to fill up and exit. Aim for diesel pumps located on the outside lanes to minimize the stress of squeezing into a poorly designed station.
3. If you must use commercial trucker lanes at a truck stop (they wish you wouldn’t), prepare to get in, fuel up  and get out. Most truck stops require you to pre-pay inside before filling. If you have a co-pilot, ask them to go inside to pay while you prepare to pump. Making it a two-person job saves time. And whatever you do, don’t dilly dally. Truckers are on the clock and you’re not, so don’t stay in the lane any longer than necessary. 

 

Fueling up a standard pickup truck with a travel trailer

For the travel trailer crowd, getting fuel is usually not an issue at most standard pumps. A standard size gasoline pickup like a Ford F150 with a moderately sized travel trailer can usually get in and out of most standard gas pumps.

Just imagine how many times you’ve seen the morning landscaping crews pull into your local QT for fuel and coffee. It’s a pretty manageable size to work with. When in doubt, use the outside lanes and pump islands for a little extra comfort.”

– Rene Agredano  – RVing 14 years, owns a 27 ft. fifth wheel towed by a Dodge RAM 2500 4×4

DEF – What is it and why do I need it?

“Many prospective motorhome buyers are told to shy away from RV’s that use DEF, or Diesel Exhaust Fluid. 

What is DEF anyway? According to DiscoverDef.com:

“Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) is a non-hazardous solution, which is 32.5% urea and 67.5% de-ionized water. DEF is sprayed into the exhaust stream of diesel vehicles to break down dangerous NOx emissions into harmless nitrogen and water.”

There is no reason to worry about DEF or anguish over trying to find an RV without it. A single gallon of DEF will get you over 300 miles while costing between $8 – $15 for a 2.5-gallon jug at Walmart or any automotive store. A typical DEF tank on a motorhome is 13 gallons, so you won’t be stressing about DEF every time you get fuel, nor will it break the bank. 

DEF at the pump

“Diesel truck stops also have a DEF dispense at the pump. In my own motorhome, my fuel intakes are at the very front of my rig, while my DEF reservoir is very near the back of my rig, 40 feet away.

I choose not to fill up my DEF at the pumps because I don’t want to give the busy trucker behind me the false notion I’m done, only to stop and get back out of my rig and fill the DEF.” 

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

When stopping for fuel, check everything

“Whether you are a brand-new or experienced RVer, you should never pull out of a fuel stop without doing a more thorough check of your rig. While fueling up, this is a great time to check that all your trailer or toad connections are secure and your hitch chains are not dragging. Check your vehicle and rig lights, tires, and any windows or skylights.

Just the other day I saw a fifth-wheel owner’s open skylight break off and fly down the road. If you have a little extra time, check your vehicle fluids, and clean your windows and headlights. Get inside your rig to make sure no drawers, doors, or other items have opened up or have been thrown around during transit.”

– Christina Nellemann, RVing 14 years, tows a 13-foot Burro fiberglass trailer with a Kia Sportage

RV electricity camping tips

Understanding RV electronics

“Your new RV will almost certainly have either a 30-amp or 50-amp system that plugs into the campgrounds electrical stalk at your campsite. Some of your appliances and devices will run on the resulting 110-volt current that comes from this connection, or the AC current derived from the inverter. Other devices will run on the 12-volt system. 

Most of the time you don’t have to worry about this, however, when something isn’t working correctly it can befuddle an RV novice that isn’t fully attuned to the electrical nuances of an RV. For example, your air conditioning units may have suddenly quit working when you fired up the blow dryer for your hair. (Quick tip for new RVers, leave those at home!)

As you ponder this electrical development you notice that the lights are still on, as are your other 12-volt devices. More than likely you’ve thrown a breaker for the AC side, without affecting the DC system.

Understanding the relationship between those two systems and how the house batteries, chassis batteries, and generator all fit into the picture is one of the primary struggles a new RVer faces when it comes to understanding the electrical systems in their new RV.”

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

What is the difference between 30 amp and 50 amp?

“A new RVer may assume a 50 amp RV has just 20 amps more than a 30 amp. That would be true, and yet, not true. Each 120-volt leg of a 50 amp plug is indeed rated to about 50 amps. If you take a look at a 50 amp plug and compare it to a 30 amp plug, you will notice a few differences. The easiest of those differences to spot is the 50 amp plug has 4 prongs while the 30 amp has 3. Why the extra prong?

Because of how it’s wired, 50 amp service allows for 12,000 watts to be used at once. While a 30 amp socket will only allow 3,600 watts. To put that in perspective, think of the average-sized space heater you can buy at a big box store. A 30 amp system can run 2 of those on high, while a 50 amp system can run 8. I’m not sure who needs 8 space heaters running at once, but I’m not here to judge.

If you have a 50 amp RV, you will have to plug into a 30 amp socket at some point because not all RV parks have 50 amp service available. Most appliances have their watt usage on a sticker, a tag, or stamped into the device. Add all running appliances wattage up. If you are getting close to 3,600, you’re probably going to trip the park’s breaker. Eventually, you may get a feel for what you can run on a 30 amp socket, compared to not having to worry about it much while using a 50 amp.”

– Levi Henley Full-time RVing 6 years, drives a 26 foot Itasca Sunstar Class A motorhome towing a Toyota Yaris on a dolly

Expert camping tips everyone should know

Keep your black tank valve shut until you’re ready to dump

“This RVer I know left their black tank open while they were hooked up at an RV park. They figured they could avoid having to dump it because everything would just wash right down the hose when they flushed. As they did their business over time, all the liquid washed right down that hose, as they thought it would. 

What they didn’t think about was all that not so liquid stuff that didn’t wash right down the hose. Every time they flushed, the paper and the, umm, other solids stayed right where they landed. In time, this solid stuff built up layer after layer, creating a sort of pyramid shape in the tank.

After storing their RV for the winter, they noticed their black tank filled up rather quickly on their first camping trip of the season. They attempted to dump the tank, and nothing would come out. Over the offseason, their pyramid had dried out and hardened into a sort of horror version of a paper mache sculpture. They had built up so much that they had to have their black tank replaced.

The moral of the camping tips story is to always keep your black tank closed until you are ready to dump. The waste and paper will break up and become liquid as it sits in the tank. The broken-down liquid will easily drain out the sewer hose.“

– Levi Henley Full-time RVing 6 years, drives a 26 foot Itasca Sunstar Class A motorhome towing a Toyota Yaris on a dolly

Level first or slides first?

“Unless explicitly and unusually specified by your manufacturer, you will always level your RV before putting out the slides. Your slides must have a level platform to roll out to avoid twisting and binding during the slide extension process. Additionally, leveling can be a little herky-jerky, you don’t want those extra bounces and bumps occurring while your slides are out.”

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

Turn off your exterior lights before bed

“RVs are awesome because we can bring comforts of home into the great outdoors, like entertainment centers and exterior lighting. But when you’re around other people, remember they might be camping for solitude, not celebrations.

When the sun goes down, turn on your exterior lights and observe: do any of your lights (including your porch fixture) glare into your neighbor’s campsite, tent, or RV windows? If so, be nice and turn them off. And when you’re kicking back with an outdoor movie under the stars, wear wireless earphones to keep sound from wafting into your neighbor’s campsite.”

– Rene Agredano  – RVing 14 years, owns a 27 ft. fifth wheel towed by a Dodge RAM 2500 4×4

Put your awnings in

“Anytime you will be away from your RV site, even for an hour, it’s a good idea to put your awnings in. Even if the forecast shows not a cloud in the sky, storms can rise up pretty quickly and create a costly repair. Awnings can rip and even worse, become a flying weapon. 

Also, it’s not a good idea to leave them out overnight unless they are tied down. We were awoken around 2 AM to a big crash to find that our awning had ripped off and the arms had gone flying up over our RV and landed a foot from the RV next to us. Yikes! Thankfully no other property or person was harmed but it was certainly a lesson to us.”

– Tina Klinefelter, RVing 19 years (3.5 years full-time), tows a 40-foot Jayco Pinnacle fifth wheel with a Ford F350

Be a tidy camper

“The principle of “Leave No Trace” applies to RV parks too.  There are a number of things my husband, Levi, and I do to keep our campsite and other areas of an RV park looking neat.  

When we traveled with our dog, Brewy, we’d make sure to carry poop bags on walks around the park and cleaned up her waste immediately. It’s no fun stepping in dog poop on a leisurely stroll around a park.  In an effort to crack down on offenders, some RV parks have instituted pet policies that pose fines or withhold pet deposits if a pet owner is caught multiple times leaving waste behind.

We throw away our trash in the park’s designated dumpster as well. I am not going to lie, my husband and I are guilty of leaving trash outside of our rig, promising to dump it “just a little later” only to completely forget about it.  The result was not pretty.

We also do a double check of the fire pit for trash.  Not only is this a common courtesy to the park, it is also a safety hazard.  Trash left behind in a burn pit is potential fuel for a fire that may not have been completely extinguished.”

– Natalie Henley, Full-time RVing for 6 years, drives a 26-foot Itasca Sunstar Class A 

Use a water filter and pressure regulator

“When hooking up to a campground water source, always use a good water filter and a pressure regulator. The water filter should be an obvious addition to your camping supply list. Even if you have a whole-coach water filter system, filtering the water before it gets into your camper just makes good sense.

Equally important, if not more, is to regulate the pressure of the water coming into your RV. A cheap regulator will automatically regulate the incoming water pressure to about 40-50 lbs. Adjustable regulators have a gauge and are adjustable to dial in the exact pressure you know your RV’s water system can handle.”

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

Essential RV maintenance tips

Maintenance and RVing go together like peanut butter and jelly. Aside from the engine and chassis maintenance that would be similar in nature to your car or truck, a lot of non-automotive maintenance will be needed. 

Roof maintenance

“Your RV roof should be inspected no less than monthly, and every time you encounter a tree line that wants to be where your roof is. Your roof should be carefully inspected for leaks around every protrusion and resealed with DICOR Self-Leveling lap sealant.

DICOR is great stuff, and in a pinch, you don’t even need to remove the old material. Just gush in a reasonable amount onto the offending area. It’s a good idea to treat the roof and all the various plastic bits and parts up there with a product like 303 Aerospace UV Protectant.”

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

Wheel maintenance

“Inspect your wheels before every trip.  The success of your camping trip depends on your wheels’ ability to carry a really heavy load.   

• Do a visual inspection of each tire.  Look for bulges, wear, nails, and any other anomalies that can affect their ability to roll smoothly. 
• Inflate cold tires to the pressure recommended by your RV’s manufacturer
• Check wheel torque and retorque to manufacturer’s suggested torque level.”

 

– Lynne Fedorick– Pulls “The Arfpod” 2018 Forest River RPod 180 with a Nissan xTerra

Black and gray tank maintenance

The last thing you want to experience on a fun camping adventure is a clogged black tank – you know that area where #2 goes! This can be avoided in a few ways:

1. Deodorize after dumping: After you dump your black tank, pour some liquid deodorizer in the tank. It will help keep the tank smell down along with breaking down toilet paper.
2. Toilet paper: Use RV toilet paper or at least septic-safe 1-ply. Do NOT put regular 2-ply paper in the tank to avoid clogs.
3. Water, water, water: The more water you use when flushing the black tank the better. This will help dissolve the toilet paper and keep it from sticking to the side of the tank and sensors. It will then ensure that all the waste goes down.
4. Black tank flushing: To avoid clogs and debris build-up, a best practice is to flush the black tank after dumping. Some RVs even have systems that make this easier. Once dumped, fill the tank with water then dump again
5. Gray tank: Do not put food, grease, or anything other than liquid down the drain to keep it free of clogs. You can also put a deodorizer down this tank periodically if it begins to smell. 

 

– Tina Klinefelter, RVing 19 years (3.5 years full-time), tows a 40-foot Jayco Pinnacle fifth wheel with a Ford F350

What RV accessories do you need?

As a new RVer, you’ll find yourself buying a lot of RVing accessories. Sometimes those purchases are fueled by desire, like that sweet paddleboard for those early morning paddling adventures. Other times those purchases will be driven by necessity. For example, a set of camping chairs, a tabletop ice maker, that fancy Blackstone Grill.

Shakedown trips help you discover what else you need

“When you purchase your new rig, take it out on a few shorter trips to really get a feel of how it works. These exploratory voyages are called “shakedown trips” and enable you to diagnose any problems, plan for any upgrades, learn the ins and outs of your rig, and have fun while you are doing it. The key to a shakedown trip is to go camping somewhere close to a town where you have access to supplies, necessary accessories, and any materials you may need for minor repairs.”

– Christina Nellemann, RVing 14 years, tows a 13-foot Burro fiberglass trailer with a Kia Sportage

Coffee is essential to an RVer

“Coffee is an essential way for many RVers to start the day. While there are many coffee makers out there, a Mokka pot is by far the most RV friendly one I have come across. Made of lightweight, durable metal, it is essentially a small percolator that takes up very little room.

It makes amazing coffee very quickly, without the use of electricity. The RV-friendly Mokka pot doesn’t require anything except water. Just a little ground coffee. Oh and a heat source to make amazing coffee. There is nothing not to love about this little coffee maker.”

– Lynne Fedorick– Pulls “The Arfpod” 2018 Forest River RPod 180 with a Nissan xTerra

Get a good surge protector! 

“Buying a surge protector should be one of the very first purchases that any new RVer should make after they have bought their rig. Our first camper was an extremely old school 1982 Layton travel trailer. We were out camping with our four-year-old daughter and our infant son and a storm came up. 

There was a power surge that blew out one of our circuit breakers. It left us without electricity for the rest of the trip. All because we had never even considered that we would need a surge protector. This, especially considering how old our camper was. Not only that but when you are going to campgrounds that you’ve never been to before, you have no idea how their electricity will be wired. A surge protector will protect your camper from damage from power surges during storms or shady campgrounds with less than perfect hook-ups.”

– Teresa Filgis – Has been RVing since 2009 and has owned several campers over the years.  Currently owns a 42’ 2016 Puma Palomino.

Don’t buy everything you think you will need right away – less is more

I think it’s best to take some time in the beginning to get comfortable with your space and your activities before deciding what to buy to fill all the nooks and crannies. We purged so much stuff after a few months of traveling because we found we were not using so much of what we brought along. Then we had to make additional purchases for the things we really did need. 

These camping tips are the same logic even if only weekend warriors. Feel it out for a couple trips so you don’t spend money on items you really don’t need only to have to spend more money on what you really do need. A good place to start is to think about the types of simple meals you want to make to help you set up a basic kitchen that you can add to later. Then think about the activities you want to do initially to have those supplies and add to them as you develop new hobbies on the road.” 

– Tina Klinefelter, RVing 19 years (3.5 years full-time), tows a 40-foot Jayco Pinnacle fifth wheel with a Ford F350

3M hooks are your friend!

“One of my first purchases for our new-to-us RV was adhesive hooks.  I went crazy buying all sizes and styles of Command hooks in an attempt to create a more functional living space. We use 3M hooks for all sorts of purposes. We hang our keys when we first enter the motorhome. And we hang our loofahs to dry in the shower. We also hang our coffee mugs underneath the cabinetry.

They serve as an extra storage space. Instead of throwing our robes over a chair or our bed, we can hang them on the bathroom door.  Same goes for hats, coats, and umbrellas.  3M hooks can be used to mount objects intended for emergencies like flashlights.  They can be paired up to anchor racks or baskets to store food items of office supplies.  A quick Google search and you’ll see that the options are endless!”

– Natalie Henley, Full-time RVing for 6 years, drives a 26-foot Itasca Sunstar Class A Motorhome towing a Toyota Yaris on a dolly

A portable ice maker is a great option

“Today’s modern, portable ice makers are technological marvels. We don’t normally equate making ice with hi-tech, but as an RVer, getting ice is often a frequent hassle. A portable ice maker is one more simple gadget. It ensures you have ice available for cold drinks, as well as the occasional bumps and bruises that occur while camping. If you’ve ever hit your head on the slide while getting something out of the storage bay, you know exactly what I mean.”

– Patrick Buchanan – RVing 5 years, drives 43 ft. motorhome and pulls a Jeep

Enjoy the RV Life experience

While by no means an exhaustive and complete list, these camping tips should give any new RVer a jumpstart to enjoying the RV experience a bit more. As we said, Facebook is marginally better for camping tips when it comes to cursory information, but for solid camping tips and information, a new RVer should join a forum like iRV2.com and check out content sites like RV LIFE, Camper Report, and Do It Yourself RV.

For more camping tips, new RVers might also want to visit RVLIFE.com. Check out the suite of trip planning and navigation tools called RV LIFE Pro. Just looking for campgrounds? Visit RV LIFE Campgrounds for the largest campground resource available.