RV Battery Basics for Newbies
When shopping for deep-cycle batteries for your RV, you’ll see both lead acid RV batteries and lithium RV batteries. What’s the difference between a lithium RV battery vs a lead acid battery? We tell you here!
Lithium RV battery and Lead Acid Battery Differences
Both serve the same basic function: to provide power to your RV over a long period of time. Both are designed to be discharged until almost empty, then recharged (this is what “deep-cycle” refers to). However, when comparing a lithium RV battery to a lead acid battery, there are plenty of differences.
First, let’s look at what specifically a lead acid RV battery is and what a lithium RV battery is. Then we’ll compare the differences between them.
What is a lead acid RV battery?
The lead acid RV battery, like all lead acid batteries, uses flat plates of lead submerged in an electrolyte. This allows it to store a charge and provide power in many applications, especially in cars and RVs.
Lead acid batteries are fairly old technology. Over time, a number of different kinds of deep-cycle RV batteries have been developed.
Flooded lead acid batteries
The first kind is the “flooded” lead acid battery. They’re called this because the lead plates are completely covered by a liquid electrolyte. They’re cheap and fairly reliable, but they have several downsides:
- They need to be regularly topped off with distilled water.
- Freezing temperatures destroy them.
- They’re very big and bulky.
- They don’t have a very long lifespan.
- Lead acid batteries can emit toxic gases in a process known as off-gassing.
- They must be stored upright or you risk spilling the electrolytes.
To overcome these limitations, new lead acid battery technologies were created: gel and absorbed glass mat.
Gel batteries
The first is the gel battery. Instead of a liquid electrolyte, these use a semi-solid gel. These batteries are designed to be used in any orientation. They are completely sealed, meaning they don’t experience off-gassing and are resistant to spillage.
Absorbed glass mat batteries
The next is the absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery. AGM batteries use fiberglass mats to absorb the electrolyte. This arrangement makes them spill-free and gives them other advantages. For example, these batteries can be charged faster, be discharged more deeply (up to 80%), and are resistant to off-gassing and freezing temperatures.
What is a lithium RV battery?
Lithium batteries, also called lithium-ion batteries, use the metal lithium in place of lead. There several different types. In most cases, your lithium RV battery is going to be a lithium iron phosphate battery. These are usually referred to as LiFePO4 batteries.
LiFePO4 batteries have many benefits over lead acid batteries:
- They can store more energy in a smaller space because they have a higher energy density than lead acid batteries.
- They have a flat discharge curve, which means they provide a consistent current for longer.
- They have very low self-discharge, so even if these batteries are stored without use for long periods, they’ll still hold a charge.
LiFePO4 RV batteries also have advantages over other kinds of lithium batteries.
For one, they’re much safer. Some kinds of lithium batteries are unstable and pose a risk of fires and even explosions! LiFePO4 batteries, however, are highly stable and safe and won’t explode or catch fire.
LiFePO4 batteries don’t require the use of nickel or cobalt. This makes them somewhat cheaper to produce, as these materials are very expensive and hard to find. It also avoids the ethical concerns surrounding cobalt mining.
Lastly, a lithium-ion RV battery can be discharged by as much as 100% before recharging. They can also be recharged very quickly because you can use very high charge rates.
Lithium RV Battery vs Lead Acid RV Battery
Now that we’ve covered the nuts and bolts of both lithium and lead acid batteries, we can compare them directly. Let’s look at the big differences between a lithium RV battery vs a lead acid RV battery.
Performance
In every measure of performance, the lithium ion RV battery comes out on top. A lithium battery provides more (and more consistent) power – and for longer!
At the low end, some flooded lead acid batteries can only discharge up to 30-50% of their capacity. Even for the more advanced AGM battery, you’re only looking at 60-80% discharge.
By comparison, a lithium RV battery will provide 80% (to as much as 100%!) of its capacity before you need to recharge it. Plus it can recharge more quickly than a similar lead acid RV battery.
Lifespan
When it comes to the lifespan of a lithium RV battery vs a lead acid battery, lithium wins again.
A battery’s lifespan is measured in cycles – a.k.a. the number of times it can be discharged and recharged. For a lead acid RV battery, the lifespan is usually in the hundreds range. Some will have as few as 300 cycles, whereas only some batteries survive over 1000 cycles.
A lithium RV battery, meanwhile, delivers thousands of cycles over its lifespan. Some batteries can provide as many as 5000 cycles!
To put the number of cycles in a battery’s lifecycle into a time perspective: a lead acid RV battery will last 2 to 5 years; a lithium RV battery can last 10 years or more.
Cost
This is one of the few cases where a lead acid RV battery might come out on top in the debate of lithium RV battery vs lead acid.
A lead acid RV battery will generally cost between $200 and $700 (depending on the size and type). The cost of lithium RV batteries starts at around $900 and can go up to multiple thousands of dollars. So for your initial investment, you’re spending as much as 5 times more for a lithium RV battery vs lead acid.
However, while a lead acid RV battery may be cheaper upfront, that doesn’t tell the whole story. Remember that a lead acid battery only lasts a few years, while lithium batteries can last a decade or more. Over the same time span, you’ll likely spend the same amount (or even more!) replacing your lead acid batteries every few years.
To boil it down, a lead acid RV battery may save you some money in the short term. But, in the long run, a lithium RV battery could ultimately save you money.
Weight
The last category for comparing the lithium RV battery vs lead acid is weight. And once again, the lithium RV battery is our winner.
Because of their higher energy density, lithium batteries are much, much lighter than lead acid. In fact, lithium RV batteries are half the weight of lead acid batteries or even lighter!
Conclusion
Lead acid batteries have some perks because they’re such old technology. They’re cheaper upfront, and while they may require some maintenance, they’re highly reliable. But when you compare a lithium RV battery vs lead acid, lithium is almost always better.
A lithium battery will be lighter, more efficient, and more powerful than lead acid. And while they cost more, they also last much much longer, so they save you money over time. Because of all these factors, lithium RV batteries are the best choice for most RVers. If you are looking for the best lithium batteries for your RV, we highly recommend heading over to Mighty Max Battery.
Which battery do you prefer in your RV: Lithium or lead acid? Let us know in the comments.
RVers looking for valuable how-to information have learned to go to the experts. Forums such as iRV2.com and blog sites like RV LIFE, Do It Yourself RV, and Camper Report provide all the information you need to enjoy your RV. You’ll also find brand-specific information on additional forums like Air Forums, Forest River Forums, and Jayco Owners Forum.
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Jennifer lives with her husband and their two cocker spaniels in a 29′ trailer in Mexico. She is one half of DashboardDrifters.com and the founder of RVSpotDrop, a web service for full time RVers.
Seems like I read somewhere that car and truck alternators won’t recharge a lithium battery is this true
Most modern alternators are ‘smart’ or more correctly, ‘variable voltage’. They are designed to maximize the fuel efficiency of the vehicle and do not support the charging of auxiliary batteries well at all (either lead acid or lithium). Fortunately, these alternators also tend to be larger which can support a DC-DC battery charger that can boost the low automotive system voltage to proper battery charging voltages. Lithium also requires slightly higher voltages than lead acid but is more easily charged. These both benefit from the charging control in the DC-DC charger to 1) keep from overheating the alternator and 2) achieve a full charge.
Before I get started, I am a retired mechanical engineer and have a very large lithium battery bank, and travel about 6 months per year. Since this ‘article’ is mostly a mediocre attempt at an infomercial, I thought I should get my position out upfront.
Although this article is generally correct, there are a number of exaggerations against LA and for LFP presented here. Then these misrepresentations end with a flying leap to ‘everyone needs lithium’ which is incorrect.
Flooded Lead Acid;
1) ‘They need to be regularly topped off with distilled water.’ Possible but generally not true. Modern lead plates include calcium which reduces water loss almost completely. This is how a ‘maintenance-free’ battery is made. Water loss is typically due to improper (too high voltage) charging or operation at high temperatures. If you avoid those, water loss is negligible.
2) ‘Freezing temperatures destroy them’. True but its only remotely possible and only if left almost fully discharged at very low temperatures. LFP batteries are far more sensitive to low temperatures than LA (something you totally neglected to mention). They must not be charged below 32F or discharged below ~15F. If they are, they are damaged very quickly and irrevocably.
3) ‘They’re very big and bulky’. True but what I think you are trying to get at is weight. LA has a low ‘specific energy’ or energy stored per unit weight.
4) ‘They don’t have a very long lifespan.’ NOT true. Well-maintained batteries have a 5-7 year lifespan. While shorter than LFP, their death is usually caused by negligence which can happen even more quickly with LFP than LA.
5) ‘Lead-acid batteries can emit toxic gases in a process known as off-gassing’. True but only if incorrectly charged (too high a voltage which would only result from a defective charger). The same can be said of LFP if improperly charged. The Ethylene Carbonate or Propolyne Carbonate electrolyte in lithium cells is also flammable when it off -gasses….. Any product, if not operated properly, can produce negative side effects but ‘off-gassing’ is not a part of the normal operation of either.
6) ‘They must be stored upright or you risk spilling the electrolytes’. This is true but it’s not really a problem that often.
7) ‘At the low end, some flooded lead acid batteries can only discharge up to 30-50% of their capacity.’ Not sure what you are trying to say but all LA chemistries CAN discharge 100% of their capacity, just like any battery. It is simply not healthy to discharge more than 50% regardless of LA construction type.
8)’Even for the more advanced AGM battery, you’re only looking at 60-80% discharge.’ Generally untrue. The chemistry/physics of lead-acid chemistry typically limited discharge to 50% of ‘true’ capacity for health reasons. Some batteries actually have more true capacity than claimed so they appear to be able to discharge more, or the construction is such that they can reduce damage due to higher depth of discharge and still reach their cycle life. Manufacturers play games with these numbers.
9) ‘By comparison, a lithium RV battery will provide 80% (to as much as 100%!) of its capacity before you need to recharge it. Plus it can recharge more quickly than a similar lead-acid RV battery.’ All true and definitely an advantage, if those advantages are NEEDED and COST EFFECTIVE for you. Most people will NEVER need or be able to take advantage of the high charge and discharge rates so that is irrelevant.
10) There is no ‘one solution fits all’ when it comes to batteries. The bottom line, get your pencil and paper out and figure out a) how much battery storage you need b) how often it will be charged, c) what the cost, weight and lifespan of each type. d) If LA still fits your needs, it is the most cost-effective solution. If you are only an occasional RV user and opt for LFP, you most likely will never see the long-term advantage.
This far from objective article would have you believe there is only one answer. Most occasional RV’ers will not be able to justify LFP if you don’t travel well more than the average RV user (2 months per year?). Why would you buy batteries that would last more than 10 years of cycling every day if you only need power 30 days per year? How long are you going to own your RV? You also need to understand that buying LFP batteries is just the start of the cost of a conversion. Typically, your charging systems will need to be upgraded as well.
Well done Steve & Jennifer! Thanks for the info, I have been curious about upgrading? to LiFePO4. I have been wondering about the effects on the RV inverter/converter and tow vehicle alternator and it appears that the cost of a LA to LiFePO4 battery conversion is more extensive that just the battery upgrade.
If solar is also desired as an upgrade, the total cost is near prohibitive.
I applaud Steve, he knows what he is talking about.
I am extremely disappointed that the author did not discuss any of the pitfalls of installing LiFePO4 as house batteries in an RV. I would not try to replace the traditional wet batteries with LiFePO4 batteries before having a professional examine your charging system and capabilities. I have read you can not just drop these batteries in as replacements for wet batteries and expect everything to be well and good. How about warning others about this in future articles.
Gotta love engineers…. 🙂 🙂 🙂 “I is one.” Wifey always felt like she had to apologize to real estate agents when we went home hunting due to all the inquiries. 🙂 🙂 🙂 Thanks for the “engineering” comment. Well, done!!
Donald Tucker-you are entirely correct in that serious negative features of lithium batteries were ignored. The charging algorithms for alternators, generators & land chg systems are far more involved & detailed for lithium and is a significant additional cost to be added for both RV’s & Boats.
Note: my 3 AGM size 8D ‘s (750amp hrs) are on their 9 th year with an average of 110 deep cycle discharge to 50% per year. My alternator regulators are set @ 14.2v specifically for AGM charging. Far more economical than lithium.
Hey Steve, Thanks for all of your great information. I also disagree with some of the articles cons about LA batteries. I check the levels and top off my six 6 volt deep cycle house batteries before every trip of 1-3 weeks and usually once a week while on the road. The two chassis batteries are maintenance free and kept charged by a solar panel on the roof. The coach was built in August 2019, but we bought it new in March 2020, they are going on three years old. Our coach is stored outside through November through mid-February. I was concerned that we had periods of below freezing temperatures throughout January, I checked the LA house batteries a few times and they all held almost a full charge during that whole time. Since we take several 1-3 week trips a year and generally stay in campgrounds, I now have confidence in staying with LA batteries for the house batteries.
Correct. Older converters are not suitable to charge lithium. I wanted to replace my wet leads with lithium and called the RV manufacturer ad was told they are not permitted to advise. I called the converter manufacturer and got a great tech to advise. You essentially need higher charge voltage for lithium so you might need to change your converter first.
My 2021 Entegra Class C has a Progressive Dynamics 4060K and it has a toggle that needs to be moved to a different position for lithium. Amazed that the dealer, the factory, and the unit instruction book knew nothing about this.
This statement is incorrect: “Both are designed to be discharged until almost empty, then recharged (this is what “deep-cycle” refers to).” It is correctly stated later that FLA can only be discharged to around 50% but that statement should be fixed. 50% by the way is much further discharged that a typical automotive battery that is not deep cycle. Also it is incorrect that freezing weather “destroys” FLA batteries. As long as they are charged, they are fine. Our FLA batteries stay in the RV outdoors in MN and right now it’s around 0 outside and they are fine. Last time I checked them they were at 12.6V, essentially fully charged, and I just charged them up a bit more before putting them away again. This is their seventh year of use. But a complete disconnect switch is essential to prevent slow depletion and freezing.
I changed over to lithium 2 years ago. 80-90% of our camping is boondocking so we require a lot from our batteries. If all of your camping is in full hookup rv parks you can get by with one cheap lead acid battery. We carry three. Our 3 12v golf cart batteries each weighed almost 100 lb each, whereas our 3 lithium batteries weigh 23 lb each. Do the math. That leaves a room for a lot more water and solar panels necessary for off grid camping. For us lithium is the way to go. Oh, we also replaced our converter with one that puts out enough juice to charge lithium batteries. Your converter from the factory won’t charge them fully.
Exactly, if LA batteries were not adapted to Winter conditions, there wouldn’t be a car operating in Canada! Keep them fully charged with an intelligent charger (good quality MPPT controller for solar systems) and you won’t need to add water (they won’t be overcharged or overheated) and they will last many years. I have 4 deep cycle industrial 6V batteries in my RV and their like new after 4 years.
Correct. Older converters are not suitable to charge lithium. I wanted to replace my wet leads with lithium and called the RV manufacturer ad was told they are not permitted to advise. I called the converter manufacturer and got a great tech to advise. You essentially need higher charge voltage for lithium so you might need to change your converter first.
My 2021 Entegra Class C has a Progressive Dynamics 4060K and it has a toggle that needs to be moved to a different position for lithium. Amazed that the dealer, the factory, and the unit instruction book knew nothing about this.
How does the Lithium batteries hold up in the cold weather 20°?
Lithium batteries how well do they perform in freezing temperatures?
Lithium batteries have limitations; 1) that they must be charged below 32F or 2) they must not be discharged below ~10F. 3). 3) Lithium suffers little capacity degradation due to temperature as the charge is not stored as chemical energy. Low temperatures reduce the reaction rate of the lead-acid reaction and thereby reduce capacity.
If your batteries are kept warm by either installing them in the heated cabin or with heaters, they will be every bit as produtive at all temperatures
You did not mention the necessary electrical system upgrades needed when converting from LA to LiFePO4. (coach battery charging system, battery isolation manager, etc)Nor did you mention that LiFePO4 batteries will be ruined if charging them when the air temp is below freezing. I am struggling with installation of my LiFePO4 batteries because these requirements were not mentioned until after the purchase.
But how do lithium batteries fare in cold weather?
Question, I have 4 lead acid 6 vout batteries. Can I mix lead acid and lithium batteries when replacing them one by one or all four at once.
Thanks
NO. You should not even mix batteries of exactly the same type and size if they are of different ages.
Lithium looses capacity very little with lower temperatyure but need to be kept above freezing at all times.
Question, I have 4 lead acid 6 vout batteries. Can I mix lead acid and lithium batteries when replacing them one by one or all four at once.
Thanks
This was a very interesting article. Only wish I had seen it about 18 years earlier. My wife and I were full timers till last month. I sold our motorhome which we purchased way back in January of 2004. While owning our 38 ft Fleetwood excursion, I replaced the batteries three or four times. It got to be quite a chore keeping them flooded with distilled water. Also keeping the terminals clean. If I had known the difference between these batteries I would have opted for the lithium ion ones. Getting too old to be on the road driving our old coach so thought we better get rid of it.
Litium batteries do blow up not safe have you ever seen a cell phone litium battery catch fire its like a nuclear bomb going off .
Mostly untrue. Older lithium constructions did have some problems. These were all of Lithium Cobalt Oxide formulations. They have largely been improved to the state where catastrophic failure is not a constructions fault but anything storing high energy, if abused, can fail spectacularly. Lithium iron phosphate batteries have almost no tendencies to fail spectacularly and the fearmongering of those who reiterate baseless ‘news’ are not helpful.
Unlike lead-acid which is a single chemistry, lithium-based batteries have more than a half dozen different chemistries. Early Lithium Cobalt Oxide batteries have some shorting issues which resulted in the reputation of lithium being dangerous. Those problems have largely been corrected and Lithium Iron Phosphate never had those problems and is exceptionally safe. HOWEVER, anything that holds a large amount of energy can devolve catastrophically given the right circumstances.
How about the problems with lithium batteries in cold temperatures?
Great article. You many want to cover the compatibility of converters with different type of batteries as they don’t all work with AGM and lithium batteries.
Does ANYONE know how, or can anyone provide a comparative performance graph for cold weather?
Regarding equipment compatibility:
While equipment designed for lead acid is designed for that specific charging profile, the LFP profile nearly overlaps it. IMHO, anytime a salesman gets involved in helping your ‘upgrade’ they are going to sell you as much as they possibly can. Many are unscrupulous and will seek to convince you to buy new equipment that you may not need. Defend yourself and your wallet by getting accurate information elsewhere, before you begin your purchasing effort.
There ARE some issues you should understand;
1) “Nominal voltages” and voltage range: You’re used to hearing ‘a 12V battery’ but the meaning is deeper. A LA battery is a ‘nominal 12.0V battery’ (note the decimal point and the “0”). Since battery voltages change during charge/discharge, batteries are rated by their VOLTAGE AT 50% CAPACITY (remember that). LA battery voltages range from ~10.5 at full discharge to 12.7V when fully charged. 12.0V is NOT the middle of the range nor is any battery. LFP has a nominal voltage of 12.8V with 10.0V at full discharge, 14.6V at full charge. Note the voltage range for LA and LFP is very different. Any ‘drop-in replacement’ batteries will subject your RV to these voltages. Any equipment you run on ’12V’ in your camper will become subject to a much larger range.
1a) KNOW what voltage your equipment needs. UNDERSTAND that anything connected to a vehicle type ’12V battery’ must be capable of operating on between 10.5V and 14.4V. This is ‘Automotive 12V’. If you buy a piece of equipment supplied by a ‘wall wart’ that says it is ’12V’, this means REGULATED 12V (11.5V-12.5V). Do not use a regulated 12V appliance on ‘automotive’ 12V power. It may fail immediately or just have a shortened lifespan. This also applies to having your new ‘12.8V lithium batteries’. They are NOT providing the same voltage as your prior 12V LA batteries.
2) “Charging voltage(s)” should be thought of as ‘maximum’ voltages as bad things happen when batteries are subject to a voltage above their design limit. For LA, that voltage is 14.4V. Above 14.4V, the water in the electrolyte will begin to separate into hydrogen (flammable/explosive) and oxygen (also referred to as ‘outgassing’). This results in water loss and the need to add water. Note this voltage is very near the maximum of LFP (14.6V). LFP’s charging voltage being 14.6V is really too high and you should endeavor to undercharge them slightly. Very little capacity difference is conferred between 14.4 and 14.6V. For this reason, a LA charger can be used on LFP pretty readily and effectively. The claim that it ‘won’t achieve a full charge’ is meant to scare you. LA batteries NEED a full charge to remain healthy. LFP does not and will be LIVE LONGER AND BE MORE HEALTHY if never fully charged. The capacity loss of LFP between 14.4V and 14.6V is less than 1%.
3) The problem with using a LA charger on LFP comes in two places: a) If the LA charger senses a battery above 12.7V it interprets it as a full charge, it probalby will not start charging. If your ‘smart’ charger terminates charge by sensing charging current rather than the voltage (most do), it will charge fine. This may be hard to determine but it is certainly easy to sell you a charger becaus it is ‘designed for lithium’.
b) Multistage LA battery chargers can have a 4th stage referred to as EQUALIZATION charging that applies a charging voltage of 15.5-16V. This is above the gassing voltage does cause water loss in LA BUT it is necessary to reverse ‘hard sulfation’ (which I won’t explain). The bottom line is that since the charging voltage in equalization mode far exceeds the maximum charge voltage tolerance of LFP, it WILL DAMAGE LFP if allowed to happen. Often, 4 stage battery chargers need to be manually placed into equalization mode and will not do it automatically. HOWEVER, if you are not sure you can lock it out, don’t use it. This applies to ALL TYPES of chargers including ‘converters’, internal chargers inside inverters and solar charge controllers.
My recommendation would be to test it out by reading the manual to make sure it didn’t do an equalization automatically (this is the potentially deadly part).Then test charging to see at what voltage the charging cuts off or won’t start. If it works well enough for your needs, at least you will have a choice.
Some Lithium resellers will claim their warranty is void if you don’t buy their charger. This is a sales tactic, not a definitive need. If that were done to me, I’d look for a supplier that was more ethical.
put a couple of solar panels on your rv roof and it doesn’t matter what batteries you use. I have (2) 300 watt solar panels and (4) Trojan T105 golf cart batteries and I never have a power problem. I get 4 years out of a set of Trojans. The cost of the solar equipment was much less than the price of lithium batteries and I don’t have any cold temperature issues. There is no way I could justify the expense of lithium batteries
Cold weather degradation is almost nothing above 32F so your comparison is just against the degradation of LA. Steps should be taken to insure your batteries are just always above 32F so you don’t have to worry about the issues other than capacity degradation.
We’ve been fulltime for over 12 years (over 200K miles). My current four GC2 Interstate LA batteries (460AH) are over 5 years old & still measure between .1275 & .1300 specific gravity. they’re in perfect condition because I take good care of them. I never drain them below 50%. I have a Flowrite watering system that waters all of them at once to the proper level. I have a Xantrex inverter/charger & 700 watts of solar that properly charges them in 3 stages. I also run the equalization mode once a month. In otherwords, I do what is required to get the maximum out of my batteries. With a 12 year history of using LA batteries successfully, we have now parked our 5th wheel permanently as a home base in Alabama & will now be travelling in a new triple slide truck camper. For this camper we chose lithium batteries for several reasons. Large truck campers on todays one ton duallies tend to max out the weight capacities. So battery weight is crucial. I was able to almost triple my useable battery capacity compared to my 5th wheel, & cut over 200 lbs of weight at the same time. They’re expensive up front, but worth it to me. They’ll require almost no maintenance, & charge quicker, which is important when boondocking, which we plan to do even more of than with the 5th wheel. So for us, LA batteries have served me well for 12 years, & now lithium will serve us well for the next few years, until we have to give up rving.
Today I had a big scare. Hit the LVD on my Battle Born 100AH for the first time, thought I killed it because it was only putting out 2.8v!
No worries, though, after a panicked call to BB, and a prompt call back, I just had to reset the BMS. I did that by hooking up a little battery maintainer panel that was putting out 20v open, and the BB woke up and started charging off the normal solar controller. I’ve never hit the LVD limit before because this battery is amazing; I’ve been adding more and more loads, and got used to having seemingly infinite amounts of power. It was cloudy for a couple days, and I was charging devices, running the inverter, the cooler, lights, computers, hotspot, etc, before I finally found the limit last night. And that only happened because I don’t have my main panel hooked up yet, and I’m running on two little panels.
I will happily help sell really good products from really good companies. IMO, changing over from a lead-acid deep cycle house battery to the Battle Born LiFePo was more than worth the money, and I am not rich. The added power and reduced weight in the same space, quicker charging, just way more better experience all around. I’ve used the one 100AH (heated) in a vanlife VW Bus, and now in a cabin, and I’m really impressed. I’ll probably get a bigger BB battery for the cabin when I can, and hopefully a bigger bank still for the house I’d like to build…. After endless lead-acid hassles and failures, I’m a lithium fan, and Battle Born is a great company to deal with.
The secret to long lasting LA batteries is regular watering. I have 4 cheap Sam’s Club Duracell 6v specials that I top off with distilled water twice a month using a Flow-Rite quick disconnect hose system. Takes about 5 minutes. My last set of 4 batts lasted 9 years. Twin 130w solar panels on the roof keep them charged up year round. FYI.